Did You Want a Bunny for Easter?

But as some unsuspecting Easter bunny recipients may soon discover, these feisty little lagomorphs can be a handful to house. In fact, their upkeep can be such a challenge that a handful of owners will call it quits and surrender their Easter pet to an animal shelter. To help prevent such a grave mistake, here are some facts and tips that a potential rabbit owner should consider.

Bunny-proof the House

To start, the first challenge most bunny owners face is that of protecting the house. Bunnies love to chew—on your plants, on your books, and especially on your electrical cords. It’s in their nature. Their wild counterparts spend most of the day foraging, which requires hours of chewing on often relatively low-calorie foods to get the nutrition they need. They browse a few leaves on one plant and then hop over to the next and search through the vegetation to get to the parts they want. In contrast, the typical house rabbit tends to get a concentrated pellet meal, which takes way less time to chew. As a result, bunnies have all that extra time on their hands and a high desire to chew.

An on-the-ball owner will provide chew toys and hay at all times to help fulfill this chewing desire. In addition to these precautions, you’ll need to bunny-proof the house. Make sure electrical cords are out of the way, and if you can’t elevate the cords put them in PVC piping.

Once you think the house is safe, you can start letting Bunny out, supervised at first. That way, you can see how well you have bunny-proofed. You never quite know what they will take an inkling to do. Some youngsters even chew and swallow carpet, which can lead to intestinal blockage, a problem that requires surgery.

It’s important that rabbits get enough exercise. Spending their entire day in a cage is not adequate any more than spending all your time in a room the size of a walk-in closet and with no T.V., radio, or internet! So, Bunny will need some playtime every day outside the cage.

Bunny Poop and Potty Training

Even before you give Bunny the run of the room or even the house, there are a few other issues to consider. Assuming you don’t like little green pellets decorating your floor, your bunny’s first lesson should be potty training. Limiting Bunny to the cage and adding a box filled with rabbit-safe litter plus samples of her No. Two often does the trick. Additionally, adding hay to the corner of the box can help entice them in. For the occasional bunny who likes to hang out in their own bathroom and poop in the cage, make the rest of the cage more comfortable so they’ll hang out there instead. Try placing a synthetic sheepskin rug in it.

Once you’re certain Bunny has the idea, you can let them out into a small play area. Be sure they still have easy access to the litter box, and add boxes as needed. By starting slowly, you’ll be able to increase the play area gradually and decrease the number of litter boxes.

An Interesting Fact About Rabbit Poop

By the way, since we’re talking about poop, you might want to know that rabbits regularly eat some of their poop. Rabbits are hindgut fermenters. That means their vegetable-digesting system occurs in the latter half of the gut. Rabbits don’t digest vegetable matter on their own. Food passes through the stomach and then is further digested, and the building blocks are absorbed from the intestines to the bloodstream. Animals can’t digest the coarse cell walls that make up vegetation. They have to rely on bacteria in their gut to ferment the products. Then, they digest the bacteria and all the material they’ve made.

Because this bacterial digestion system occurs well down the road in the mid intestines (primarily a portion called the cecum), a lot of the digested material is wasted and leaves the body through the poop. To recover this important source of nutrition, rabbits tend to poop the cecal pellets at night and then eat these so-called night feces. 

This handling should start before three months of age since the sensitive period for developing social bonds and learning to recognize that being handled, people, and other pets is safe occurs in the early weeks of life. Different people, including visitors, should handle bunnies so they learn that visitors are safe to be with, too. They will learn even faster if you give them treats to nibble on while you’re handling them and when putting them in new situations. Then, they will associate the handling and new situations with good things. If they are hungry but won’t eat, that indicates the situation is scary.

Medical Issues

Besides these behavioral aspects, rabbits require additional considerations. Rabbits require lots of care, possibly more than a cat or a dog. They have dietary needs that are more specific than a dog’s, and husbandry is such a major issue that if you’re not paying attention, problems can arise before you even have any idea.

Veterinarians commonly see problems of benign neglect. Owners usually aren’t purposely neglecting their rabbits, they just haven’t learned how to properly care for them. 

Such problems include teeth so overgrown that Bunny can’t eat, urine burns on the tummy, and malnutrition. Additionally, because rabbits are prey animals, without thorough socialization, they stress easily and, like cats, hide their diseases for a long time. That means that when we finally realize they’re sick, they’re pretty far along.

To prevent problems from sneaking up on your bunny, examine them daily for physical problems and bring them in yearly for veterinary checkups.

By now, it’s clear that bunnies require unique care. And maybe an Easter bunny is not right for you. But for those owners who can meet their needs, bunnies can make unique companions.