1. Next, have the nail trimmers nearby when you are interacting with your cat. This interaction may be a play session or a time when your cat is comfortably settled on your lap accepting treats. You do not need to move the nail trimmers around, just have them within view of your cat when they are near you.
   
2. Let your cat see you lift and put down the nail trimmers. If your cat enjoys lying on your lap, you can have the nail trimmers near, pick them up and put them down, then feed your cat a treat.
   
3. Practice bringing the nail trimmers to your cat’s foot, then moving them away and giving your cat a treat. If your cat is too stressed about this step, only bring the nail trimmers part way to your cat’s foot before putting them back down and giving a treat.
   
4. After your cat has learned to tolerate a single nail being isolated and examined with the trimmers nearby, cut the toenail. Then begin adding toes to individual sessions until you can cut multiple toenails in one session.

Overall, you want your cat to feel as comfortable, safe, and relaxed as possible when getting their nails trimmed. Work with your veterinarian and staff to make nail trims at home and at the clinic the most positive experience possible for your cat.

There always seems to be the occasional cat for which the traditional therapies do not seem to be appropriate.

1. Radiotherapy is not an insignificant expense and may be financially out of reach. 
2. Some cats simply will not take oral medications. 
3. The compounded ear ointments do not always work. 
4. Some owners are simply unable to give medications twice daily indefinitely with meaningful regularity. 
5. Some cats have a concurrent illness that precludes methimazole or simply does not tolerate its side effects.

Hill’s Pet Nutrition has developed such a diet, called y/d, and it has been an alternative to the more traditional therapies since 2011. The diet is available in both dry and canned formulations in some regions. Always consult with your veterinarian before changing your pet’s therapeutic diet.

How Long do you Have to Feed the Diet for the Cat Not to be Hyperthyroid Anymore?

Several studies have been done, and hundreds of cats have been evaluated. Many cats will have normal thyroid levels in the first two months of diet use; however, a full response can take up to 12 weeks. By 12 weeks on the diet, 90% will show normal thyroid levels. The diet is ineffective in approximately 10% of cats eating it.

Can a Cat Have any Treats While on this Diet?

Unfortunately, there are no acceptable treats. Feeding ANY thing other than the therapeutic diet could interfere with the effectiveness of treatment. Foods or treats meant for other pets in the home should be kept away from a cat on this form of therapy. Also, hyperthyroid cats who roam outside may be eating any number of things out in the world. It is unlikely that their diet can be controlled enough for this form of therapy to be effective. In fact, if the cat on y/d is still hyperthyroid after eight weeks, it can be assumed that the cat is finding another iodine source. The cat might simply be cheating on the diet, getting extra iodine in medication or in drinking water, or even from the surface of a food bowl.

Can Other Cats in the Household Eat this Diet Safely?

After over a decade of Y/d diet availability, it appears that normal cats may safely eat Y/d diet. No reactions or problems were found when the diet was experimentally fed exclusively to normal cats for a two-year period. Further, no issues have come up in the pet-owning population. If multiple cats are present in the home and feeding separately is problematic, it should be fine to feed all the cats the iodine-restricted diet.

The manufacturer suggests taking a week to transition the cat from his normal food to this one, not because of the iodine issue but because it is always a good idea to avoid an abrupt food change. After the transition is complete, Hills recommends a thyroid level, kidney parameters, a recheck exam, and a urine specific gravity (test for urine concentration) after four weeks and again after eight weeks on a Y/d diet. If your cat is still not showing a normal thyroid level in eight weeks, it is worth going out to 12 weeks and evaluating one more time. After your cat has achieved a normal thyroid level, an exam, and blood work should be performed every six months.

In cats with concurrent kidney disease, lab work is recommended after two, four, and eight weeks on the diet and every three to four months thereafter.

What about Switching a Cat on Methimazole Over to the Diet?

The manufacturer recommends simply switching from medication to diet directly with no transitional period. Simply discontinue the medication and start the diet.

Methimazole, surgery, and radiotherapy are well-reviewed effective therapies for feline hyperthyroidism. Where this diet fits in the picture and whether it should replace traditional therapy or be considered an acceptable last resort remains to be seen over time.

The Virus Itself

The feline distemper virus amounts to a single strand of DNA surrounded by a protein coating. It is extremely stable in the environment, which leads to its characterization as ubiquitous (everywhere). It can last a year indoors at room temperature. It survives freezing as well as treatment with such common disinfectants as alcohol and iodine. Fortunately, soaking a surface in bleach (diluted 1 part bleach in 32 parts water) for 10 minutes will kill it.

Virtually every cat in the world will be exposed to this virus to some extent because the virus lives all around us.

Infection occurs when the virus enters the body through the mouth or nose. Whether illness results or not depends on the immunity in the victim vs. the number of individual virus particles (i.e. the amount of virus) entering the body.

The feline distemper virus is a parvovirus. Many people are familiar with this term as parvovirus infection is a very real concern for dogs, especially puppies. In fact, canine parvovirus is closely related to the feline distemper virus and much of the information regarding canine parvovirus holds true for feline distemper. The feline distemper virus, however, is more difficult to remove from the environment and more lethal in its victims than its canine counterpart.

Infection and Disease

An infected cat sheds large amounts of virus in all body secretions, including feces, vomit, urine, saliva, and mucus. The virus persists long after evidence of the original body secretion has faded away. The virus enters the victim’s body and proceeds to seek and infect rapidly dividing cells. The lymph nodes in the throat are first to be affected and from there, over the next two to seven days, the virus rushes to the bone marrow and intestine.

In the bone marrow, the virus suppresses the production of the entire white blood cell line, hence the term panleukopenia (literally, “all-white-shortage”). White blood cells are the immune cells needed to fight the infection, and without them, the victim is completely vulnerable to the advance of the virus. In other words, the first order of the virus’s business is to eliminate its host’s defenses. From there, it continues to the intestinal tract. 

There, the virus infects the intestinal cells, causing ulceration leading to diarrhea and life-threatening dehydration as well as bacterial infection as the barrier between the body and intestinal bacteria is lost. The patient dies from either dehydration or secondary bacterial infection. The infection can be so rapidly overwhelming that death occurs before the vomiting and diarrhea even begin.

Because most cats are exposed to this virus to some extent, it is unusual for a kitten to have no immunity whatsoever. Furthermore, the vaccine is so effective that even one dose can provide long-lasting protection. As a result, infection is largely limited to unvaccinated younger animals kept in groups such as a colony of barn cats, feral cats, or even a group of shelter cats. Viral numbers (the amount of virus) must be large enough to overwhelm a cat’s partial immunity, but once virus-laden diarrhea begins to gather in the environment, those large numbers can be reached. Death of sick cats is typically considered to be 90%, though it has been said that a kitten who survives the first 5 days is likely to survive the infection.

Recovered kittens are considered contagious for six weeks following recovery.

Cerebellar Hypoplasia

Without a normal cerebellum, the kitten is born with marked intentional tremors: whenever he focuses on purposeful movement, he tremors so much that normal movement is impossible. Such kittens are called wobbly cats and are notably abnormal but are considered to have good life quality and can be kept as pets as long as they are looked after.

Diagnosis of Infection

Any kitten with fever, appetite loss, diarrhea, and/or vomiting is a suspect for feline distemper. Classically, a white blood cell count shows almost no white blood cells; there are few causes of white cell counts this low and the infection can be considered confirmed.

If a dead kitten is available for necropsy (that’s an autopsy in animals), the infection is readily confirmed by laboratory tissue analysis as there are unique tissue findings in feline distemper.

Virus isolation, PCR testing, and antibody level measurement are also potential tests for feline distemper.

Treatment

An infected cat can recover if the cat can be kept alive until the immune system recovers from the panleukopenia and can throw off the infection. This means that invading intestinal bacteria must be kept at bay with antibiotics and aggressive fluid therapy must control dehydration. Hospitalization is required as fluids and medications must be given intravenously. Blood sugar must be supported as well and control of pain, nausea, and hypothermia is crucial. This is essentially the same therapy as for canine parvovirus infection, though the feline experience seems to be more lethal. There is little chance of survival without hospitalization.

Recovery

If a cat is lucky enough to recover from this infection, generally, no permanent damage is retained, and the cat goes on with lifetime immunity.

• Virus is shed for up to six weeks after recovery.

Disinfecting the environment after infection is a huge challenge; the best protection for newly introduced cats will be vaccination. That said, bleach diluted 1:32 in water with a 10-minute contact time will kill the distemper virus, so it would be prudent to bleach any surfaces that can be bleached. 

Prevention

Vaccination after age 12 weeks is generally effective in generating immunity against this infection, though immunity gained from mother’s milk may inactivate the vaccine through age 14 to 16 weeks. Most vaccine protocols call for at least two doses of vaccine to be given 2-4 weeks apart with the last dose being received at or after age 14 weeks. There are some vaccines that are approved for single-dose effectiveness depending on the age of the kitten.

• Vaccination, at least with a live vaccine, should be avoided during pregnancy as cerebellar hypoplasia (see above) can result in the kittens.

Vaccination is generally given every one to three years depending on the protocol of the animal hospital. Vaccination can be given as an injection (either modified live or killed virus vaccine) in the right front leg area or can be presented as a nose drop.

Killed virus vaccine has been associated with vaccination-associated fibrosarcoma (an aggressive cancer) in rare individuals. Research is continuing in this area; however, the killed virus vaccine has largely been replaced by a modified live virus vaccine, which is not felt to have this problem.

“Litter-training” Cats

At about three to four weeks old, kittens begin to play, explore, and dig in loose, soft materials like dirt or litter. This exploratory behavior soon leads them to eliminate in these areas. “Litter-training” a cat is not like house-training a dog. Taking a cat to the box and moving their paws in the litter is unnecessary and may create negative associations with the box or you. Instead, provide an acceptable, accessible litterbox based on the criteria described below, determining what is acceptable and accessible from the cat’s point of view, not yours.

Consider the following factors when setting up your litterbox for the best experience for you and your cat(s):

Size Matters

Bigger is better when it comes to litterbox size. Cats prefer a box with enough space to dig, cover their waste, and turn around without touching the sides. A general rule of thumb is that the box should be 1 1/2 times the length of the cat from their nose to the base of their tail.

Litter Depth and Type

Some caregivers believe that adding more litter reduces the need for frequent cleaning. Wild cats prefer areas with just a few loose particles for making small scrapes, not several inches of dirt. Therefore, two to three inches of litter is sufficient, allowing cats to cover their waste without sinking in. Long-haired cats may prefer even less litter or a smooth surface. A dirty litter box is a common reason for cats to eliminate outside the box, so adding extra litter does not replace the need for regular scooping and cleaning.

Most cats prefer fine-grained litter because it has a softer feel. Clumping litter is usually finer-grained than typical clay litter. High-quality, dust-free clay litter is also relatively small-grained and may be perfectly acceptable. Non-scented, clay-clumping litter is often the best choice, as some cats may not like crystals, pellets, or wood shavings.

Avoid changing types or brands once you find a litter your cat likes. Buying generic, the least expensive, or whatever brand is on sale may lead to problems. Some cat litter is developed more with the caregiver’s needs in mind rather than the cat’s. Many cats are put off by the smell of scented or odor-repellant litter, so placing a room deodorizer or air freshener near the litterbox might be objectionable. A thin layer of baking soda on the bottom of the litter box can help absorb odors without deterring the cat. If the litterbox is kept clean, odor should not be a problem.

Location is Key

Caregivers often place the litterbox in out-of-the-way locations to minimize odor and litter tracking around the house. Common placements include the basement, next to an appliance, in the garage, or on an unfinished, cold cement floor. While convenient for caregivers, these setups can be less than ideal from the cat’s perspective.

For example, young kittens may not be able to navigate long flights of steep stairs in time to use the bathroom, and newly introduced adult cats may initially forget where the box is located. Cats can also be startled if a furnace or washer-dryer suddenly turns on while they are using the box. Additionally, some cats prefer to scratch the area around their litterbox and may find a cold cement floor unappealing or uncomfortable.

To minimize the risk of your cat finding an alternative, more convenient toilet, always place litterboxes in quiet, low-traffic areas with easy access and escape routes. Make sure there is at least one box per level of the house, and keep them away from your cat’s food and water stations. One compromise is to place the box in a closet; if you do this, wedge the door open from both sides to prevent your cat from being trapped inside or outside. If the box is on a smooth, slick, or cold surface, consider placing a small throw rug underneath it.

Types of Litter Boxes

Litterboxes come in many shapes and sizes, and while larger is generally better, each cat may have individual preferences. Open boxes are typically preferred over covered boxes, although they provide less privacy. Hooded boxes offer privacy but can have poor air circulation, which might deter some cats. Self-cleaning boxes can be convenient but might scare others. Just like with location, offering different types of litterboxes helps cater to each cat’s unique needs.

Maintenance

Litterboxes must be kept consistently clean. To meet the needs of the most discriminating cat, feces should be scooped out of the box daily. How often you change the litter depends on the number of cats and the number of boxes you have. Twice a week is a general guideline, but depending on the circumstances, the litter may need to be changed every other day or only once a week. If you notice an odor from the box or if much of the litter is wet or clumped, it is probably more than time for a change. Do not use strong-smelling chemicals or cleaning products when washing the box. The smell of vinegar, bleach, or pine cleaners may cause your cat to avoid the box. Washing with soap and water should be sufficient.

Liners

Some cats don’t mind having a liner in the box, while others do. You may need to see if your cat is bothered by a liner in the box. If you use a liner, make sure it is anchored in place well so it cannot easily catch your cat’s claws or be pulled down into the litter.

If Problems Develop

Elderly or arthritic cats might benefit from ramps or a lower-sided box. For cats that tend to kick litter out, use high-sided boxes and consider placing a litter-trapping mat under the box. Some cats might be sensitive to certain box materials or odors. If your cat stops using the litterbox, your first call should always be to your veterinarian. Many medical conditions can cause a change in litterbox habits, and these possibilities must be considered first. If your veterinarian determines your cat is healthy, the cause may be behavioral. When resolving house-soiling behavior in cats, environmental changes are often needed, and punishment is never the answer. For more assistance, contact a veterinary behaviorist or animal behavior professional who is knowledgeable and experienced in working with cats.

The transition process often involves much more than just plunking down a new food item.  Time, patience and tricks are often required.

One reason that cats like dry food so much is because the pet food companies do not play fair when manufacturing this sub-optimal food source.  They coat the kibble with extremely enticing animal digest sprays that are very pleasing to a cat – making a poor quality diet very desirable to the target animal.

In addition to the aforementioned coating of dry food with animal digests, another issue is one of a crunchy texture, which is very different from canned food.  Cats are very resistant to such a drastic change in the texture of their food.

If you are convinced that getting your cat off of dry food is the way to go, read on for some tips on how to accomplish this.

The key is to do it slowly and with patience and incorporate various tricks for the stubborn cats. The most important issue is actually making the change, not how fast you accomplish it. 

I must say that my cats tested every ounce of patience I had over a 3+ month period of time during their transition from dry to canned food.  They had been on dry food their entire lives and did not recognize canned food as food.  My cats ranged in age from 2 years to 10 years at the time of the transition.

The single biggest mistake I see people make time and again is to say that their cat “won’t touch” the new food and then panic and fill up the bowl with dry food.  In many cases, it is simply not that easy to get cats off of dry food.

There are two categories of cats – those that will eat canned food and those that will be extremely resistant to eating anything other than dry food.  If your cat falls into the first category, lucky you. These cats will take to it with the attitude of “finally – an appropriate diet for my species.” In this case, if your cat has been on all dry food, or only receives canned food as an occasional ‘treat,’ start by feeding canned food in increasing amounts.  Gradually decrease the dry, taking about a week to fully switch the cat over to 100 percent canned food.

Some cats may experience softer stools during the transition.  I do not worry if this happens and tend to ‘ride it out.’  If diarrhea results from the diet change you will either need to experiment with different canned foods or slow the transition down and do it over a period of several weeks.

Note that in over 40 years spent in this profession, I have never met a cat that needed dry food to stay healthy but some need to be transitioned more slowly than others.

The average cat should eat about 180 – 220 calories per day which will be found in 5-6 ounces of the average canned food.

However, note that high protein/low fat/low carb foods like Weruva Paw Lickin’ Chicken and some Tiki Cat varieties are very low in calories (see the Cat Food Composition chart, far right column) so you will need to feed much more than 5-6 ounces which can get quite expensive.

The necessary daily caloric intake should be split between 3 to 4 meals/day (or just free-fed if they are not overweight).

When determining how much you should be feeding your cat once transitioned to canned food, keep it simple.  Too fat?  Feed less.  Too thin?  Feed more.

Now….for the stubborn cats……

If you are unlucky like I was, and your cat does not recognize the fact that he is a carnivore and would live a healthier life if eating canned food, (or a homemade diet) then you will have some work to do.  Some cats that have been on dry food for their entire life will be quite resistant to the diet change and may take several weeks or longer to make the transition to a healthier diet.

For ‘resistant-to-change’ cats, you will need to use the normal sensation of hunger to help with the transition. For this reason, it is very important to stop free-feeding dry food.  This is the first, and very critical, step.  You need to establish set mealtimes. They are not going to try anything new if their bowl of junk food is in front of them 24/7.

Cats do not need food available at all times. It really is okay for them to experience a hunger pain!  That said, it was very hard for me to listen to my cats begging for food even though I was strong in my conviction that I was heading them in the best direction for optimal health. It truly was a stressful time for me and them.  Actually, I think it was harder on me!

This is where many people fail and just give in and fill up the dry food bowl.  There were a few times when I had to call my ‘sponsor’ and was instructed to “just leave the house if you can’t take looking into those eyes!”  I left the house. Those pitiful little cries of “I have not had food for two WHOLE hours!” were hard to take.  But, lo and behold, they were just fine when I returned.  Not one cat had died from hunger.

On the other hand, do not attempt to withhold food for long periods of time (greater than 24 hours) with the hope that your cat will choose the new food.  You need to ‘convince’ them that a high quality canned food  really is good for them, rather than to try starving them into it – which does not work anyway.  Allowing a cat to go without food – especially an overweight cat – for a long period of time (greater than 48 hours) can be quite dangerous and may result in hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease).

Hepatic lipidosis can also develop when a cat consumes 50 percent or less of his daily caloric requirements over a period of many days.  The definition of “many” varies from cat-to-cat.  For this reason it is important to understand that you need to have some idea of the calories from canned food combined with the calories from dry food that your cat is consuming on a daily basis while you are implementing the transition to canned food.

I have never seen a cat develop hepatic lipidosis when consuming at least 15 calories per pound per day. This number is figured on lean body weight, not fat weight.

If your cat weighs 18 pounds but really should weigh 12 pounds, please make sure that he is consuming about 180 calories per day.  (12 pounds lean body mass X 15 calories/pound/day = about 180 calories/day)

In reality, the cat in the above example would probably be completely safe at only 150 calories per day.

If you have a small female cat that should only weigh 9 pounds, please make sure that she is consuming at least 135 calories per day.

Canned foods never list the calorie content on the can but many dry foods do list this information on the bag.  A rough guideline for the calorie content of most canned foods that are 78 percent moisture is about 30 calories per ounce, but can range from 20 to 40 calories/ounce as shown by the chart linked above.

Most cats will lose some weight during the transition to canned food.  Given that a very high percentage of cats are overweight to begin with, this is a favorable result of the diet change – as long as they do not lose too much weight too fast.  A cat should never lose more than one to two percent of body weight per week.

I highly suggest that all cat caregivers weigh their cats periodically, especially if they are over 10 years of age.  This will help ensure a safe transition to a healthier diet and, in general, weight loss is often the first sign of ill health for any reason.  I make it a point to weigh my cats at least once each month, especially since they are now over 10 years of age.

Here is a scale that is reasonably priced:  Salter Baby and Toddler scale. It weighs to the nearest half ounce and has a ‘hold’ button on it that helps obtain an accurate weight even for a cat that is moving around a bit.

Here is another scale that may be even better because its base is as long as the scale.  Red Cross Baby Scale. This is important for cats that are trained to walk onto it otherwise, scales like the Salter one linked above may tip.  This would scare the cat and harm the scale.

All of my cats lost weight during the three months that it took to switch them to canned but none of them became too thin. They slimmed down to a nice lean body weight – losing fat while maintaining their muscle mass.  They also became much more active.

If your cat is overweight, please see the feline obesity article.

Resign yourself to the fact that you will be very frustrated at times and you will be wasting canned food as they turn up their nose at it.  Also, you may want to immediately switch your cat to a dry food that has fewer calories from carbohydrates than most dry foods. Talk to your veterinarian about specific brands.

The low-carb dry foods are very high in fat and therefore are very calorie dense.  These foods must be portion-controlled, otherwise your cat may end up gaining weight.  Let’s presume that a certain dry food has 612 calories per cup.  One quarter of a cup contains 153 calories so be very careful to pay attention to how much of these high calorie dry foods you feed.

The caloric needs of an average cat can range between 150 to 250 calories/day depending on their lean body weight and activity level.

The low-carb dry foods are also very high in phosphorus.  This is especially detrimental for cats with compromised kidney function.

And, of course, these low-carb dry foods are water-depleted – just like all dry foods – putting your cat at risk for serious urinary tract problems.  They are also cooked at high temperatures in order to dry them out.

I do not recommend these dry foods for long-term feeding for all of the reasons stated above. Please use them only as transition diets.

Be sure to stay away from any “light” varieties since those types of foods are very high in carbohydrates.

Here are some various tricks for the stubborn ones.

Keep in mind that different tricks work on different cats:

1. If your cat has been eating dry food on a free-choice basis, take up the food and establish a schedule of 2 to 3 times per day feedings.  I really do prefer just twice-daily feedings when trying to transition them.  A normal, healthy hunger response after 12 hours goes a long way to convince them to try something new.
   
2. If you want to take the transition very slowly, you can feed the amount that your cat normally consumes in a 24 hour period – split up into two feedings to get him used to meal feeding.  Many people, however, are unsure as to how much their free-fed cat really eats so I would start off by figuring out the calories that your cat needs to maintain his weight if he does not need to lose any weight.
   
3. Leave the dry food down for 20 minutes, and then remove any uneaten portion.  Repeat in 8 to 12 hours depending on if you are feeding two or three times per day.  During the first few days of transitioning to a set schedule, you can offer canned food during the dry food meals, or in-between meals.  The stubborn ones, however, will not touch it. Do not despair – all cats will eventually eat canned food if their caregiver is determined, methodical, and patient enough.  Once your cat is on a schedule, you will notice that he is more enthusiastic about food during his proper mealtimes and will be much more inclined to try something new. 
   
4. Again, most cats only need 150 to 250 calories/day. The dry food bag should tell you how many calories are in a cup of food but if it does not, you can call the company.      
   
5. Once the cat has transitioned to canned food, I prefer to either free-feed them (if they are not too fat) or to put out a meal 3 to 4 times per day. Small cats in the wild eat 8 to 10 small meals per day. I do not worry about leaving canned food out for up to 12 hours at a time. Keep in mind that a lion is not going to eat his entire prey immediately.
   
6. Once you have established scheduled mealtimes, you will most likely need to start feeding a bit less at each mealtime in order to get the normal sensation of hunger to work in your favor.  Again, we are trying to use the normal sensation of hunger to help us out.  We are not trying to starve the cat into the diet change.       
   
7. Once your cat is on a schedule of meal-feeding instead of free-feeding, try feeding a meal of canned food only. If he will not eat it – and the very stubborn ones won’t, try not to get frustrated – and do not put down dry food.  Try some of the other tips listed below.  If he still will not eat the canned food, let him get a bit hungrier.  Offer the canned again in a couple of hours, or just leave it out.  Some cats will be more apt to try something new if they keep walking by it and seeing/smelling it.  Try a different brand/flavor or a different ‘trick.’  Once it has been about 18 hours since he has eaten anything, give him just a small amount (1/4 of a cup) of his dry food – keeping track of his daily caloric intake.
   
8. Remember to be patient.      
    
9. Exercising your cat with a tassel toy before feeding can also help stimulate his appetite.  
        
10. Cats’ noses are much more sensitive than ours are.  They can smell the dry food in the cupboards.  I suggest either putting it in the refrigerator or putting it in a tightly sealed container.  If they can smell it, they will hold out for it.  Some people recommend getting it out of your house completely, but this is not possible when you are dealing with a very stubborn cat that needs a bit of time and patience to make the transition happen. 
         
11. The following worked for my cats:  Sprinkle a very small amount of tuna – or any other favorite treat (some cats do not like fish and would prefer cooked chicken) – on top of the canned food and then once they are eating this, start pressing it into the top of the new food. (The “light” tuna is better than the fancy white tuna because it has a stronger smell.  Or, Trader Joe’s makes a Cat Tuna that is very stinky.)  Be careful to decrease the amount of fish as soon as possible.  Health problems can occur with a predominantly fish-based diet.  Plus, you do not want to create a situation where your cat will only eat very fishy foods.   
       
12. Make sure that any refrigerated canned food is warmed up a bit.  Cats prefer their food at ‘mouse body temperature.
    
13. Try offering some cooked (or raw – whole meats, rinsed well or partially baked) chicken or meat baby food.  One of the goals is to get your cat used to eating food that does not crunch.  He needs to get used to a different texture.  Also, chicken is a great source of protein to point him in the proper direction toward a high protein, low carbohydrate diet. If he eats the chicken, he may head right into eating canned food.  Then again….he may not.
    
14. Try sprinkling some parmesan cheese on the canned food.  Most cats love parmesan cheese and this trick has been very successful for me.
    
15. Try a product called FortiFlora, feline version. Most cats LOVE FortiFlora and this has recently become my favorite trick.  This is a probiotic made by Purina but you are not going to use it for its probiotic properties. You are just going to use it as a flavor enhancer. The base ingredient in FortiFlora is animal digest – the very substance that makes dry food so very enticing to cats. The directions say to use one package per day – and you can use this much if you want to – but this amount is not usually necessary.  You may only need about 1/4 of a package, or much less, with part mixed into the food and part sprinkled on top of the food just as you would use salt and pepper on your own food.
    
16. FortiFlora can be purchased online but an easier product to find is Temptations treats.  I trap a lot of feral cats for spaying/neutering purposes and this is one of the best baits that I can use. These tasty treats can be found at most pet stores.  Put a few in a plastic baggie and crush them with a hammer.  Use the crushed treats as described for the FortiFlora above.
    
17. There are numerous freeze dried meat treats on the market that you can also sprinkle on top of the canned food.  Halo’s Liv A Littles is a popular choice.
    
18. Speaking of texture, a common question is “can I just soak the dry food in water?”  I hedge more than just a bit at this question.  Dry food often has a very high bacterial content.  Mold is also often found in dry food.  Both organisms flourish in moist environments. There have been many deaths of dogs and cats secondary to eating mold mycotoxins, vomitoxins and aflatoxins that often contaminate the grains found in dry food.  If you want to try the trick of wetting down the dry food to alter the texture, please leave it out for only 20-30 minutes then discard it.       
    
19. Try dipping some dry food pieces in the juice from the canned food. Some cats may refuse to eat it if the dry food even touches the canned food.  But if he will eat it with a bit of canned juice on it, try the ‘chip and dip’ trick.  Scoop up a tiny bit of canned food onto the piece of dry food. Put them on a separate plate from his small portion of dry food.  Some cats will eat their small portion of dry and then go investigate the dry food with a tiny bit of canned on it.
    
20. Going one step further, try adding a few small pieces of the canned food to the small portion of dry food.  Your cat may pick around the canned food but will get used to the smell – and texture – even if he does not eat any pieces of the new food.
    
21. Crush some dry food and sprinkle it on the top of the canned food.
    
22. If you do not think it will upset your cat, try gently rubbing a bit of canned food or juice on the cat’s gums  This may get him interested in the taste and texture of the new food – but do it gently.  You do not want to make this a stressful situation and create a food aversion.  (This trick is commonly used to get just-weaned kittens used to eating canned food.
    
23. If you do not think it will upset your cat, use your finger to put a tiny bit of canned food or juice on his paw for him to lick off.  This has not worked for me in the two cats I have tried it on, but it is another idea.  Make sure you do it without stressing your cat.  Again, you do not want to create a food aversion. 
          
24. If you have a multiple cat household, some cats like to eat alone in a less stressful environment, so you may need to take these cats into a separate, quiet room to think about the error of their ways – their carbohydrate/dry food addiction. Once in a quiet setting, away from the other cats, two of my cats would eat canned food/tuna ‘meatballs’ by hand.  Not from a bowl, mind you, but only from my hand. I’m not sure who was being trained. They did eventually start eating from a bowl after a few hand feedings.
    
25. Try various brands and flavors of canned foods.  Try Friskies, 9-Lives, Fancy Feast, etc.  Many cats prefer the foods that are all by-products and turn their noses up when offered the by-product-free diets like Wellness, etc. You can worry about feeding a a different canned food later if you want to and you can always mix different types of food together.  The initial goal is just to get your cat used to eating canned food and not dry kibble.  And remember what I said above. I would much rather see a cat eating a canned food like Friskies, 9-Lives, or Fancy Feast rather than any dry food.
    
26. Syringe-feeding is also another option but has to be done with finesse and patience so as to avoid a food aversion.  If you choose to syringe-feed, your goal is not to feed him a full meal.  Sometimes just syringing a 1-2 cc’s can ‘jump-start’ your cat into eating the canned food – maybe not the first time but it will at least get him to taste the new food and experience a foreign texture. The best way to syringe-feed is to kneel on the floor with your cat between your legs so he is facing the same way as you are.  Then, using a small (1cc/TB) syringe, slip it in the side of his mouth and give about 1/2 cc at a time.  He may spit it out but you are just trying to get him used to the taste and texture, not stress him.
    
27. Few canned foods will make it through the tip of a syringe but human meat baby food works well for this trick. You can also water it down a bit if you need to.
    
28. If you want to use canned cat food instead of baby food, you will need to cut the end off of the syringe so that the opening is as big as the barrel.  Make sure that the tip is smooth.  If you do not want to cut the tip of the syringe off, you will need to puree a pate (versus chunks) type of food.  I puree Wellness for this.  I run it through the blender with a small amount of water (about 3-4 tablespoons/5.5 ounce can).  Then I strain it to remove anything big enough to clog the small tip of the syringe.  Wellness is also a balanced diet, unlike human baby food.
    
29. Even though human baby food is not a balanced diet for long-term use, it is a great tool that can be used to help transition a cat to a texture that he is not used to.     
     
30. I did have to take drastic measures for a foster cat named Molly.  She was dangerously obese (20 lbs – double what she should have weighed) and would not eat canned food even after two weeks of syringe-feeding her.  She needed to go in for a dental so while she was under general anesthesia, I put in a feeding tube. This took the stress off of both of us.  After two weeks of feeding her via the tube she started licking the canned food from my fingers then suddenly decided it was time to eat it.  She then started to finally lose weight.  Before the 7-pound weight loss, she could barely walk, could not clean herself, and was quite possibly headed for diabetes.
    
31. Don’t give up.  One of my barn cats ate dry food for the first 12 years of her life.  She would never touch the canned food that the other cats ate. Then, one day, she found her ‘inner carnivore’ and started eating canned food out of the blue!  I was shocked.  That was 4 years ago and she has been on a 100 percent canned food diet since she made the switch.

These are just a few tricks that you can try.  Different tricks work on different cats.  The key is to be patient.  Remember, it took me three months to get my cats on 100 percent canned food.  Most cats, however, will not take this long.

Cytauxzoon felis infection is highly seasonal and takes place in spring and early summer when the tick population is active.

What is Cytauxzoon felis?

Cytauxzoon (pronounced “sight-oz-o-un”) organisms are blood parasites that were first recognized in Africa as a parasite of antelopes and other ruminants. Cytauxzoon organisms were not discovered in the U.S. until 1976, when Cytauxzoon felis was first described as a feline blood parasite affecting and killing cats from forested areas.  Initially, there was concern that livestock were soon to be next as this was a ruminant infection as far as anyone knew, but research showed only cats could be infected. It appears that in the U.S., the natural host of this infection is the bobcat, where most of the time, the infection is minor, and it is only the domestic cat for whom infection is a disaster.

Cytauxzoon felis is a single-celled organism that infects both the blood and tissues of the cat. The blood cell stage of the parasite called a piroplasm, is not particularly harmful; it is the tissue stage, called a schizont, that is the problem. The schizont infects immune cells that line blood vessels, which causes them to swell and block off the blood vessels in which they reside. Any tissue that has blood vessels (which is basically every tissue in the body) can be affected, but most symptoms seem to relate to the resulting red blood cell destruction and inflammation. Symptoms start small with listlessness and fever but quickly progress to jaundice, spleen enlargement, pain, and death within one week with a two to three-week incubation period from the time of initial infection.

How do Cats get this Infection?‘

The organisms are home to the immune cells lining the blood vessels as described above, and if the host lives long enough, the schizonts will eventually produce offspring (the piroplasms). Bobcats do not get sick during this process. It is the local bobcat population that infects the local tick population.

Cats cannot be infected without a tick bite.

How is the Diagnosis Made?

The cat typically has a fever, with or without jaundice, and is brought to the veterinarian for evaluation. In most cases, the piroplasms are fairly obvious when the blood sample is evaluated. Because the tissue phase of the infection with the schizonts comes first and the blood infection with piroplasms comes after, it is possible that at the time the blood is tested no piroplasms are yet present. Because of the rapid progression of the infection, piroplasms will likely be seen in a few days if they are not at first, so sometimes a second blood evaluation is needed.

Because piroplasms sometimes have variable sizes, they are sometimes mistaken for Mycoplasma hemofelis, a much more treatable infection.

Cytauxzoon organisms are larger and have a thick “dot” on their ring shape.

If the diagnosis is to be made post-mortem (after death), it is usually easy to find the schizonts in many body tissues.

A milder strain of Cytauxzoon felis seems to have emerged in west Arkansas and east Oklahoma, where a number of cats have survived without treatment (as do most bobcats). These cats continue to have piroplasms in their blood but seem to have no effect from this. It is yet unknown how this is able to happen. (Different strains of Cytauxzoon, effective medication, and genetics are all theories.)

Prevention

Since mortality is quite high with this infection and treatment is still highly investigational, prevention is paramount. The most effective prevention is to keep the cat indoors where there is no tick exposure. The next best prevention is to use a tick control product on the cat; note that there are not nearly as many tick products for cats as there are for dogs. Most canine tick products are toxic to cats and cannot be safely used so meticulous label reading is crucial. Just because a product works on fleas definitely does not mean it also works on ticks and the feline label is needed to ensure safety. New products are being approved and released every year, so ask your veterinarian.

Besides the haired parts of the skin, these tumors can be seen at the lip margins, the eyelids, the anus/rectum, the vulva, and the prepuce of the penis (the fold of skin covering the penis). A specific, poorly understood form of cutaneous lymphoma seems to occur near the hock, which is the ankle of a back leg. A cat can also have skin tumors and lymphoma elsewhere in the body at the same time; often it’s seen in the lymph nodes, gastrointestinal tract, liver, spleen, kidneys, mouth, or nasal passages. As with non-cutaneous lymphoma in cats, each case is different.

The disease is complex and there are several forms of it. Unfortunately, there is no overall consensus from the veterinary community on what the best course of action is in any individual cat.

The cause is unknown in most cases. Feline leukemia virus and feline immunodeficiency virus can cause lymphoma in cats, but don’t seem to be involved in most cases of cutaneous lymphoma. Lymphoma in cats can rarely happen at a vaccine site, but most vaccine-associated tumors are other kinds of cancer, not lymphoma.

Cutaneous lymphoma can look like skin nodules, masses, ulcers, or just areas of skin that are flaky, bald, or changed in color. Some of the skin tumors can be large.  As time goes on, the skin often becomes thick, red, ulcerated, and may ooze fluid. Cats can also have signs of internal disease such as swollen lymph nodes, a lack of appetite, weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, and general weakness.

For diagnosis, a piece of tissue is taken from the skin tumor, usually with either a biopsy or a fine needle aspirate. It is examined under the microscope. Cutaneous lymphoma can look like some other skin diseases, so enough testing must be done to ensure accuracy. Blood tests and a urinalysis may be needed. More tests like X-rays, ultrasound, or tissue samples may be used to see if other organs besides the skin are involved.

Treatment is much like other cancers. Surgery can sometimes remove skin masses or lesions. This surgery can be useful to get tissue to make the diagnosis. If the cat is lucky and the lymphoma is ONLY at one place on the skin, surgery may also help for treatment, but this situation is rare. It’s much more common for lymphoma to involve lots of different organs at once. Even if only the skin is affected, there are usually too many sites for surgery to help.

Chemotherapy is the main form of treatment for that reason as it can help multiple areas of the body at once. If all goes well, it can be really effective at reducing the lesions even in a short time, although this result may not last. Radiation may occasionally be helpful for skin lesions occurring in just one spot. Rarely, cases with lymphoma in multiple spots on the skin have also been treated with a superficial form of radiation that treats the skin without affecting deeper organs. Corticosteroids pills such as prednisolone are often part of chemotherapy for cutaneous lymphoma. If the corticosteroids are used by themselves when more effective therapy isn’t an option, they may give some temporary relief.

Sadly, there is no cure and the long-term prognosis is poor. However, chemotherapy can slow progression and temporarily improve a cat’s quality of life. On average, cats treated for cutaneous lymphoma will only survive for less than a year. Some cats live longer, though, and cats whose disease starts out at only one spot might be likely to do better.

Diseases associated with the liver, gallbladder, and/or bile duct system can be confusing for pet owners because these diseases can have really vague symptoms. It’s not always clear why they happen, and the terminology used to describe them tends to sound like a foreign language. Cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis, the second most common type of liver disease seen in cats, is a prime example. This disease is sometimes referred to as cholangitis, sometimes cholangiohepatitis, and sometimes cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis syndrome. In addition to these names, several different forms of the disease exist, which all have their own names. To add to the confusion, sometimes other diseases can occur at the same time as cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis, which makes figuring out the cause for the symptoms and diagnosing the problem pretty difficult. 

Helpful Definitions

Cholangitis means inflammation of the biliary tree (also called the biliary tract or bile duct system), which connects the gallbladder and liver and helps these organs make, process, store, and secrete bile. Bile is used to break down fat from food in the intestines. Cholangiohepatitis means inflammation of the biliary tree as well as the surrounding liver cells. Cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis can be caused by bacterial infection, in which case the disease may be called neutrophilic cholangitis. It can also be caused by a parasite known as a liver fluke, which causes inflammation after it invades the liver. Another type is called lymphocytic cholangitis. It is associated with lymphocytes, a type of white blood cell involved with the immune system, and it likely occurs because of an overreaction by the immune system.

Pancreatitis, or inflammation of the pancreas, and inflammatory bowel disease, an immune-mediated condition associated with inflammation, poor digestion, and poor absorption of nutrients within the gastrointestinal tract are common conditions that occur in cats that develop cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis. Veterinary scientists don’t know exactly why these diseases happen together, but over 50% of cats have one or both of these diseases in addition to cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis. 

Clinical Signs and Symptoms

Depending on what type of cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis a cat has, the symptoms may occur slowly, over a long period of time (chronic) or happen suddenly (acute). Common signs include poor appetite, throwing up, diarrhea, acting tired, drinking and urinating a lot, fever, weight loss, belly pain, swollen belly, and a yellow tinge (jaundice) to the skin, gums, and eyes may be seen.

Diagnosing Cholangitis/Cholangiohepatitis

Lab tests will be run on the cat’s blood to see how the red blood cells, white blood cells, and platelets are handling the disease. This type of test is called a complete blood count or CBC. A chemistry lab test will also be run, which will show the disease’s effects on the liver as well as other organs. Findings that point towards cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis include high liver enzymes. Increased levels of bilirubin, which is a product of the breakdown of red blood cells by the liver, can also be seen. At high levels, bilirubin can cause jaundice (yellow-tinged skin, eyes, and gums). Other tests include abdominal x-rays and ultrasound to examine the liver, gallbladder, and biliary tree. Ultrasound can also be used to sample the bile to check for and culture bacteria. Finally, to officially diagnose cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis, biopsies of the liver tissue are needed. These can occasionally be done with abdominal ultrasound, but often surgery is needed to get large enough pieces of diseased tissues for a pathologist to properly examine. 

Treatment

Treatment may depend on the cause or reason for the cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis (e.g. immune-mediated vs. bacterial infection). If the cat has pancreatitis or inflammatory bowel disease, those will require treatment as well. Antibiotics are commonly used although they may be switched to different kinds depending on the bile culture results. Antibiotics are usually needed for at least 1-2 months and should be continued even once the pet starts feeling better. Steroids to suppress the immune system may be needed. Supplements or medications to help support the liver and biliary tree may also be prescribed, including ursodiol, vitamin E, and SAMe. Do not start any supplements without consulting your vet.

In addition to medications, very sick cats may need hospitalization, IV fluids, a feeding tube, and/or surgery to remove the gallbladder. Surgery is usually only needed if an obstruction or blockage occurs within the biliary tree/bile ducts. Prognosis, or chance for improvement, varies depending on the cause. Cats with acute neutrophilic cholangitis, which is a sudden onset bacterial infection of the biliary tree, usually recover. Those with chronic or long-term forms, or lymphocytic forms of cholangitis, tend to respond poorly to medications and the disease can worsen over time to the point of liver failure. 

If you suspect your cat has a form of cholangitis/cholangiohepatitis, or you have questions about the disease, call your veterinarian for further information. 

A cat with cerebellar hypoplasia is abnormal from infancy, though it may not be clear that something is wrong until the kittens are toddling around with some coordination. The cat with this disease clearly has balance issues: he walks with his legs widely placed for fear of falling and places his feet clumsily. He often leans against walls for support. Sitting still, he may look like a fairly normal cat but once focused on a toy, food bowl, or friendly hand, tremors begin and get more severe as concentration becomes more intense. Still, despite the obvious impairment, cats with this condition are happy, able to feed themselves and use a litter box, and are felt to have good life quality.

Your Cerebellum and You

Certainly, the decision to move from point A to point B is voluntary but the chances are you can walk across pretty uneven terrain without falling down or even thinking about where to put your feet. You can thank your cerebellum for that.

Your cerebellum receives information from your feet as well as from the vestibular apparatus in your middle ear. This information tells you where up and down are and where your body is in relation to up and down. Your cerebellum integrates all this information so that you can not only walk or run across uneven terrain without devoting any conscious thought to how to do so, you can turn your head, maybe even drink from a bottle of water, and look at another person while you are walking without (much) chance of falling down.

Your Cat’s Cerebellum and the Feline Distemper Virus

The mother cat may not be actually infected during pregnancy to create this syndrome; if while pregnant she has been vaccinated with a modified live distemper vaccine, the most basic of all cat vaccines, it can have the same detrimental effects.

.Kittens infected with distemper under age 2 weeks may also experience enough cerebellar damage to suffer cerebellar hypoplasia. This means that mother cats due for vaccines should not be vaccinated during pregnancy or in the first 2 weeks following kitten delivery.

Diagnosis

While imaging such as CT scanning or MRI can be used to confirm the underdeveloped tiny cerebellum, the diagnosis of this condition is usually obvious because of the following features:

• The condition is non-progressive (it doesn’t get worse).
• The cat is not weak, he’s just not coordinated.
• Intention tremors are evident when the cat is focused but the cat looks largely normal if still.
• Walking is uncoordinated with a wide stance, often using the wall for support.

Treatment

No treatment can resolve the damage in a kitten with cerebellar hypoplasia. Some kittens are more severely affected than others. Owning a cat with cerebellar hypoplasia emphasizes managing the condition. The cat should be indoors only and non-spill food dishes should be obtained. Most cats have good life quality and make-up in personality what they lack in motor skills.

Prevention

This syndrome is easily prevented by vaccinating female cats for feline distemper when they are neither pregnant nor nursing kittens under age 2 weeks. This means that regular vaccination will prevent cerebellar hypoplasia in kittens. If a cat is pregnant, vaccination should be withheld during pregnancy and for a good three to four weeks after the kittens are born. 

Fear/Anxiety Avoidance

These types of behaviors are an effort to maintain safety from a perceived threat by avoiding the threat.

1. freezing (in an effort to be less noticeable), especially if confined or unable to escape; such cats are often quiet and do not vocalize or make noise. Note that a “frozen” cat can switch quickly to “repulsion,” becoming aggressive towards the cause of fear
2. freezing results in stopping other normal behaviors like eating or using the litterbox; this is why cats wait until quiet hours to eat/drink when a lot of commotion is happening at home
3. moving away slowly, i.e., crawling or slinking away
4. fleeing, especially if startled
5. hiding
6. crouched body with feet flat on the ground (often underneath the cat) to allow for quick escape and protect important organs
7. trembling
8. tensed muscles
9. dilated pupils (enlarged black part of the eyes)
10. ears turned back or flattened with brow furrowed
11. sleepy appearance
12. walking with back flat, tail down, and head down
13. excessive and sudden grooming in one area
14. standing tall with hair standing on end (an effort to appear larger)
15. tail held tightly to the body
16. averting the eyes

Fear/Anxiety Repulsion

These types of behaviors are an effort to maintain safety from a perceived threat by getting rid of it.

1. hissing, growling
2. swiping
3. spitting
4. scratching
5. biting
6. directly and intensely staring at the source of anxiety
7. using the body to physically block another being (eg, blocking another being from the food bowl if worried about that resource)
8. ears flattened and out to the side
9. standing tall with hair standing on end (an effort to appear larger)

Fear/Anxiety/Curiosity

These information-gathering behaviors are an effort to learn about an object, person, environment, and/or if perceived as a threat, to determine the severity.

1. hypervigilance and scanning the surroundings frequently
2. fixation on the object of concern
3. ears erect and directed at the source of concern
4. sniffing
5. Flehmen response, which is raising or curling the lips to detect information such as pheromones
6. may startle easy if intensely focused
7. tail swishing
8. straight legs and upright posture
9. watching object of interest casually/calmly (as opposed to the intense staring of repulsion)

Frustration

These types of behaviors are reactions to something that is not meeting the cat’s expectations or their inability to control something (e.g., hunger, not wanting to be held). These behaviors are an effort to achieve what they desire.

1. vocalization- meowing continuously
2. circling or pacing
3. rubbing body or face on people, animals, or objects
4. scratching on objects
5. cats may switch behaviors quickly (unlike with fear/anxiety, where in some cases behaviors are prolonged)
6. very active
7. flattening or rotating ears
8. thrashing or firm swishing of tail
9. gazing upward
10. half-blinking
11. showing the tongue
12. Flehman response
13. nose licking or nose wrinkling
14. rippling and twitching skin
15. hair standing up if very frustrated
16. grooming specific areas (eg, shoulder or base of tail) quickly and in an intense manner

Pain

It is extremely difficult to notice pain in cats as they tend to hide pain well, but they do demonstrate some noticeable behaviors.

1. hiding
2. limping
3. more withdrawn or quiet
4. ears back
5. pupils dilated
6. change in normal behavior
7. squinted eyes
8. hunched back

Play

These behaviors are used during play and to initiate it. Hunting behaviors are similar to those of play.

1. ears forward
2. tail pointed up (an indicator that the cat is game for a friendly interaction)
3. whiskers forward
4. tail twitching
5. predatory/hunting behavior such as stalking, pouncing, swiping, or biting
6. immature cat rolling towards older cat (an indication of appeasing behavior)

Relaxed/Content

These show the cat is content and often demonstrates trust in their environment.

1. eyes half-closed
2. sitting or lying down with minimal muscle tension
3. minimal tail movement
4. purring
5. kneading (“making biscuits”)
6. rubbing on people or things
7. belly exposed (demonstrates trust because cats will often protect their belly in fearful situations)
8. grooming the body rhythmically, in a relaxed manner

Mating

These are an effort to demonstrate receptiveness to mating, such as showing signs of going into heat or estrus.

1. female rolling around a male
2. purring
3. stretching
4. rubbing on objects, people, or other animals
5. extra affection
6. raising hindquarters, treading with back legs
7. frequent and loud vocalizations
8. backing up to furniture or horizontal object, twitching tail, often urinating in this position (marking behavior).

Behavior changes in cats can be quite subtle and difficult to notice unless you are really paying attention.