In fact, weight loss alone has been shown to reduce risk and even reverse some of these conditions in cats, particularly with diabetes. 

Fortunately, obesity is a preventable and treatable disease. Avoiding obesity in our pets can be accomplished by choosing quality food, providing an appropriate amount of food and treats, promoting exercise, monitoring weight changes, and adjusting the amount of food that they receive based on those changes. As with other diseases, prevention is the best approach to ensuring the health of our pets, but sometimes we do not realize just how much weight our cats are gaining between visits to the vet.

The ideal weight for your cat is determined by their body condition score (BCS), which is measured on a 9-point scale that your veterinarian will assign based on your cat’s silhouette as well as the size and location of their fat stores. Using this BCS, veterinarians can establish an ideal weight for each individual cat, which gives us a reference point for weight loss goals and progress. Cats are considered overweight if they weigh 10-20% more than this ideal weight and obese if that number rises to over 20%.

The first step in weight loss is to determine your cat’s ideal body weight based on their BCS. A score of 4-5 is considered an appropriate body condition, so anything greater than 5 is overweight, and anything under 4 is underweight. The general rule is that every 1-point increase or decrease from the ideal BCS score (4-5) is about 10-15% of their weight. For example, if your cat is given a BCS of 6, they need to lose 10-15% of their body weight in order to return to their ideal weight, whereas a cat with a BCS of 9 would have to lose 40-60% of their body weight. With this ideal weight in mind, you and your veterinarian can set a weight loss goal for your cat of losing 0.5-1.5% of their body weight per week. It is important that they do not lose weight too quickly, as we do not want your cat missing out on any essential nutrients that could lead to other problems, like hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease). 

Next, you’ll need to assess the current food intake of your furry friend; this includes the type of food they eat, the amount they receive, how often they are fed (2-3 times per day, free feeding, etc.), and the number of treats or extra food they are given. If your cat is being given a lot of treats or has unlimited access to food throughout the day, one of the first things you want to do is start feeding them isolated meals, spreading their total daily food ration over 2-3 meals per day. Eliminating treats and extra food from the table is another quick and easy way to decrease calories. Many veterinarians will recommend switching to a veterinary therapeutic weight loss diet that is specifically formulated to decrease calories while still maintaining all of the nutrients that your cat needs. You may also want to consider trying canned food instead of dry food if your cat will eat it, as canned food typically has a lower calorie content due to the increased water content of the food.

Finally, it’s time to put your plan into action. There is an equation that can be used to calculate the number of calories that your cat should be consuming each day, however, many veterinarians do not rely on this alone as it is based on an average and can vary dramatically between individual cats. Somewhat severe dietary restriction is often necessary to achieve these weight loss goals, so you will typically start by decreasing your cat’s food intake by around 20% and monitor their progress by weighing them every 2-3 weeks. Monitoring their weight is one of the most important parts of this process, as you may need to further decrease the amount of food they are receiving if they are not hitting that goal of losing 0.5-1.5% of their body weight per week. It is best to use a small gram scale to weigh your cat’s food before each meal so you know exactly how much they are getting, as measuring cups and scoops can be inaccurate for measuring kibble.

Measuring your cat’s weight can be done by weighing yourself, holding your cat, weighing again, and then subtracting the difference. This may not be as accurate as your veterinarian’s scale, but will do in a pinch and beats having to get your cat to the vet every week. You can also weigh your cat in the cat carrier, then weigh the carrier alone and subtract the difference.

To help increase your cat’s weight loss and keep that weight from being put back on, you can also try various types of enrichment (toys, wands with toys at the end, food mazes, or outdoor catios) to help your cat become more active and burn more calories each day. Once your cat has returned to their ideal weight, it is important to continue these new lifestyle changes and work to find a feeding plan that allows them to maintain that healthy weight.

Obesity is a common problem that many of our pets face, but fortunately, it is something we can reverse with some simple lifestyle changes. With an appropriate amount of quality food, a consistent feeding schedule, and a little more exercise, there is no reason a healthy cat should not be able to return to that ideal weight. Avoiding obesity can help reduce your cat’s risk of many life-threatening conditions, improving not only the length of their life but also the quality. Although it may be challenging for both you and your cat to adjust to some of these changes, it will certainly be worth it. 

This was not always the case. In the 40s, 50s and 60s — well over half a century ago — death from anesthesia was about 1 in 400 for dogs and 1 in 260 for cats. These numbers are from referral hospitals, which are generally anesthetizing sicker patients, and that could increase the numbers over what you would expect to see in healthier pets in a general practice. There is a study from the early 2000s in the U.K. that followed mortality in a variety of practices (from general practices all the way to referral hospitals) and included dogs, cats, birds and pocket pets; in it, they found a death rate from 1 in 588 for dogs and 1 in 416 for cats. The risk has continued to drop, so that today those fatality numbers are around 1.7 in 1,000 dogs and 2.4 in 1,000 cats.

Although only statistics for dogs and cats have been created, the same improvement in risk applies to other pets such as rabbits, rats, hedgehogs, bearded dragons, and even goldfish as equipment and teaching new methods of anesthesia have improved over the years.

How does it work?

General anesthesia is given through an IV or an inhaled gas, or sometimes a combination of the two. It is similar, on a smaller scale, to a medically-induced coma. Oftentimes a sedative is given first.

It works by interrupting nerve signals in your pet’s brain and body. It keeps them temporarily unconscious: asleep, relaxed, and pain free during a procedure or surgery. It slows down automatic functions like breathing, heart rate, and circulation. During that coma-like period, brains cannot process pain, nor will the pet remember what happened during surgery.

During the procedure, the veterinarian or veterinary anesthesiologist will check some basic functions while your pet is under, such as breathing, temperature, heart rate, blood pressure, blood oxygen level, and fluid levels (as would happen in a human surgery). Monitoring doesn’t have to be done with expensive equipment, as having a trained person monitoring the depth of anesthesia as well as certain physical parameters can be just as valuable. Computerized anesthesia monitors can be used to enhance, but not replace, that person’s ability.

If those functions aren’t where the veterinarian wants them to be, adjustments in the level of anesthesia can correct them.

Monitoring doesn’t stop when surgery is over, or even when the equipment is removed. About half of the anesthesia deaths in small animals happen during the first 3 hours after surgery. The causes are usually breathing or heart problems. That makes this time critical for patient safety. Careful monitoring by a trained observer of physical variables, especially oxygenation and temperature, can help make this time period safer.

What main factors influence anesthetic risk?

Not unsurprisingly, the first is the health of the animal. Healthy patients, or patients with mild, controlled disease, are at less risk than patients who are sick. For healthy dogs, about 1 in 2,000 are expected to have a fatality and about 1 in 1000 cats would have one. In sicker patients, it would be closer to 13 dogs and 14 cats out of 1,000.

Having anesthesia in an emergency can also increase risk. That makes sense if you think about it. When you have time to plan a procedure, stabilize your patient and can schedule surgery at a time that is optimal for everyone, things go better. Having said that, the risk of anesthetic death with an emergency procedure, while higher than regular procedures, is still low.  Emergencies are emergencies because they can’t wait, and there are times that the pet will die if surgery is not done as soon as possible, such as with bloat.  

Veterinarians can decrease risk by focusing on monitoring and supportive care before, during, and after anesthesia. Preoperative planning is done with a good history, physical examination, and often baseline lab work to check liver and kidney function, among other things. Any abnormalities identified before surgery can be corrected if needed.

Follow all of your veterinarian’s pre-operative instructions exactly, including when to stop giving food the night before. Anesthetized patients lose their ability to swallow. If there is food in the stomach, the pet could vomit while under anesthesia or soon afterwards. If vomiting occurs before the swallowing reflex comes back, the vomited material can enter into the lungs, causing aspiration pneumonia. For emergency surgery, this factor is overlooked, but not for elective surgery.

While anesthetic risk is not zero and never will be, the risks are low and shouldn’t prevent any pet owner from providing health care for their pet whether it’s a dental cleaning or major surgery.

Like people, our pets’ bodies develop cancer cells throughout their lifetime. In the lucky ones, these cells remain dormant and no malignancy ever grows; in others, the cells go mad systematically. The cellular delinquents bust past the body’s natural immune system, as though a gate was left open, burgeoning into abnormal cells. They do not surrender to a healthy cell’s programmed death, so the cellular delinquents multiply as they crowd out healthy cells. They don’t follow any rules and ignore signals that they are overfilling the place. For nourishment, they cause new blood vessels to form to supply them, which should be supplying healthy tissue.

What signs of cancer can we look for in our pets?

1. Lumps and bumps that don’t go away
2. Wounds that don’t heal, particularly if their appearance is changing

1. Limping or other signs of pain while walking, running, or jumping
2. Unexplained weight loss
3. Less energy, less willingness to play, walk, and run
4. Difficulty breathing
5. Bleeding, including nosebleeds, skin bruises, blood in stool, urine, or vomit; pale gums can show blood loss
6. Bad odors from the mouth, ears, or anus
7. Abnormal discharge such as blood or pus; vomiting or diarrhea, particularly if accompanied by other signs
8. Behavior changes such as lethargy, depression, lack of appetite, snapping
9. Changes in urinary and bowel habits, such as straining or going too often

They range from subtle to more obvious that something is going wrong. Signs of cancer can be similar to ones seen in other diseases, so don’t assume your pet has cancer if you see one. Also don’t assume that age alone is causing lethargy or lack of playfulness.

If your pet has one or more of these signs, it’s time for a visit to the veterinarian: catching any disease process early is best because it’s easier to treat.  With cancer, early detection can sometimes make the difference between good health at a reasonable cost and an expensive illness that may include death.

Cerenia®, an FDA approved medication, is effective at preventing motion sickness in dogs. If the anxious behavior does not persist, then motion sickness was likely the cause.

Step 2: Pheromones and Aromatherapy

Adaptil®, a pheromone, is an odorless message specific to dogs that can help dogs feel calm and relaxed during times of stress. Feliway®, is the cat version. Pheromones are sprayed on the floorboards, in your pet’s carrier, and where your pet rides.

Wait 10 minutes before letting your pet back in their carrier or car and never spray directly on your pet.

Lavender, chamomile, and sandalwood scents are thought to reduce anxiety and have a positive effect on behavior and mood. A study was published showing dogs spent significantly more time resting and sitting and less time moving and vocalizing during car rides when lavender was introduced for car rides.

Step 3: Window Shades and Thundercaps

Blocking the view outside can be dangerous to the driver. Tools such as small window shades or a Thundercap are helpful in reducing both motion sickness and car ride anxiety.

Step 5: Long-Term Treatment

There are many approaches to decreasing your pet’s anxiety in the car. All techniques start with a calm and relaxed animal. Conditioning relaxation on a mat or the use of a Treat&Train® are helpful when modifying this behavior.

Step 6: Medication

Medications can be helpful when reducing anxiety in the car. Talk with your veterinarian about options for your pet.

Abscesses of the anal glands are common and can be mistaken for rectal bleeding if they rupture. They may cause the pet to “scoot” the rectal area on the ground.

Tooth root abscesses typically form just below the eye, and start as a bump or swelling. They may break open and bleed, and the pet may stop eating due to the pain or experience pain upon chewing.

Small, uncomplicated abscesses may respond to medical therapy, while larger and more extensive abscesses may require surgical treatment. Proper surgical management of abscesses often requires placing a drain or latex tubing (either under sedation or general anesthesia) to provide an escape route for secretions from the wound’s damaged tissues.

Tooth root abscesses require tooth extraction – antibiotics alone will only lead to a temporary solution, but the abscess will recur unless the affected tooth is pulled. This surgery requires general anesthesia.

What to Do

Abscesses should be examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible and within 24 hours.

• Fluid may normally drain from the site of an abscess. An abscess does not drain through the tube, but rather around the latex tubing. Therefore, it is important for you to clean the area around the drain if directed to do so by your veterinarian.
  
• Apply a warm compress to the affected site at least two times daily for 3 to 5 days after your pet leaves the hospital. Wet a clean washcloth with warm water and place it directly over the affected site, and then apply gentle pressure ideally for 5 to 10 minutes. Test it on your skin – if it is too hot for you, it is too hot for your pet.
  
• Be sure you and/or other family members wash your hands thoroughly after contacting any fluids draining from the abscess site.
  
• Be sure to give all prescribed medications exactly and completely as detailed by your pet’s veterinarian. Some patients may appear to feel better after only a few days of treatment; however, it is crucial for medications to be administered according to schedule to prevent the infection from recurring.
  
• Restrict your pet to indoor activities until the infection has resolved completely.
  
• Notify your pet’s doctor should your pet experience any of the following:
  – Increased redness and/or heat from the site of the abscess
  – Failure of the abscess to heal
  – Worsening of your pet’s general health
  – Loss of appetite lasting longer than 24 hours

What NOT to Do

• Do not attempt to open the abscess yourself.
• Do not attempt compressing the wounds of an animal that may bite you. Your safety is of utmost importance to us. Contact your veterinarian for assistance should this situation arise.
• Do not apply topical medicines (such as ointments or creams), give any human medications (such as Tylenol/acetaminophen or Advil/ibuprofen), or use any home remedies, unless directed by a veterinarian.

Browse the complete Veterinary Partner First Aid collection.

• Introduction: First Aid
• Abscess: First Aid
• Bandaging: First Aid
• Bee Stings and Insect Bites: First Aid
• Bleeding: First Aid
• Bloat: First Aid
• Burns: First Aid
• Can’t Breathe: First Aid
• Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR): First Aid
• Chemical Injuries: First Aid
• Choking: First Aid
• Dehydration: First Aid
• Diarrhea and Vomiting: First Aid
• Difficult Birth: First Aid
• Drowning or Near Drowning: First Aid
• Electrocution: First Aid
• Eye Injuries: First Aid
• Fainting and Dizziness (Syncope): First Aid
• Fever: First Aid
• Fractures and Injuries: First Aid
• Hyperthermia (Heat Stroke): First Aid
• Hypothermia: First Aid
• Impalement and Penetrating Injuries: First Aid
• Nosebleed: First Aid
• Paralysis: First Aid
• Physical Exam Checklist for Pets: First Aid
• Poisoning in Dogs and Cats
• Preventing a Health and Safety Crisis: First Aid
• Seizures and Convulsions: First Aid
• Shock: First Aid
• Snakebite: First Aid
• Straining to Eliminate: First Aid
• Sunburn: First Aid
• Transporting an Injured Pet: First Aid
• Wounds: First Aid
• Wrapping Up First Aid

The term anorexia simply means eating no food. Many people get confused by the human eating disorder anorexia nervosa. When the veterinarian says the pet has anorexia, it does not mean the pet has a distorted body image; it simply means the pet is not eating.

So how do we get a pet to eat? We will review some techniques here. Be sure to check with your veterinarian regarding the proper amount of food to feed and which foods are acceptable. Eating only a few bites of food or drinking the gravy does not constitute a good appetite so when asked if your pet is eating, this isn’t really a yes or no question. Be specific about quantity.

Don’t wait for the appetite to completely disappear before seeking veterinary assistance.

Pets with a poor appetite are sick, and if you wait until the appetite is completely gone, it may be too late for recovery. This is particularly true for cats. As the appetite fades, the pet must depend on stored fat for nutrients. When large amounts of fats are mobilized to meet energy demands, they must be processed by the liver before being used for calories. The feline liver is not designed to handle large amounts of fat and will fail in a condition called hepatic lipidosis.

First Offer Canned Food

It can be baked into a kibble or steamed into a canned food. Canned foods differ in quality just as dry foods do. See if the pet will eat a canned food or a mixture of dry and canned food. Adding a flavored broth or cooked egg is also helpful in enticing the pet to eat a kibbled diet.

Second, Offer a Delicacy

Foods that are generally regarded as delicacies among pets include canned chicken, cooked egg, and canned tuna. Therapeutic recovery formula diets are generally well accepted.

With the exception of the recovery diets, these treats are not nutritionally complete but can make a good jump starter for pets. A pet who has not been eating may feel continued discomfort until eating begins again. Something tasty may be necessary to get the appetite restarted.

Do not simply put the food in a dish in front of your pet. Instead, rub a small amount on the teeth or spoon a little in the mouth so that the pet can get a taste. Don’t be surprised if he spits it out; we are just trying to get the taste of the food in his mouth. Hold the bowl up to the pet’s nose so that the aroma is inescapable. You may find that coaxing in this way gets the appetite started.

A Note on Gourmet Cat Foods (Yes, Dogs Eat Them, too)

Several “extra tasty” products available in the grocery store can be really helpful in tempting a pet with a poor appetite. Fancy Feast by Purina comes in numerous textures and flavors, each can containing approximately 100 calories. The diet is complete and balanced for cats and is often a good appetite jump starter. Temptations®, by Mars Petcare, are especially well-accepted treats made for cats. Because many cats will not eat anything else, they have been balanced to be nutritionally complete for cats and can be used as a cat’s sole diet if necessary.

A Note on Starting Prescription Diets

If the pet is supposed to eat a prescription diet but refuses, do not attempt to starve the pet into eating the prescription food.

Many prescription diets are relatively bland and pets do not wish to eat them, particularly if they are used to eating large amounts of table scraps (always a bad practice) or a more flavorful regular food. Starving the pet will only make him sicker. Try a gradual change from the regular food to the new food over a week or so. If the pet simply will not accept the new food, be sure to let your veterinarian know this. There may be an alternative flavor to try; further, prescription diets are guaranteed by the manufacturer meaning you can get a full refund on the bag or case if the pet does not accept the food. Sometimes it is necessary to forgo the therapeutic aspect of the special diet just to get the pet to eat, but your veterinarian will help you with these guidelines.

Provide Privacy

Be sure other pets at home do not bully or distract the sick pet. In a multi-pet home, it may be difficult for the sickly or elderly pet to eat without the younger pets taking his food. Many animals wish to eat at their leisure, particularly if they do not feel well. Consider giving your pet a private area and her own dish. Never feed multiple pets from the same bowl as one is sure to get the lion’s share of the food to the other’s disadvantage.

Many pets like to eat overnight when no one is watching.

Medical Assistance

Appetite-stimulating medications are available.

There are several products available that can create a sense of hunger:

Capromorelin: This is an oral liquid that mimics the body’s natural system that generates the sense of hunger. It is best given daily rather than only on bad days. Capromorelin is available in both a canine and a feline formula. 

Mirtazapine: This is a pill originally developed as an anti-depressant for humans but was found to have appetite increase as a side effect. It is available as a tablet, typically given daily for dogs or every two to three days for cats, or as a transdermal gel for cats which is applied daily to the inner surface of the ear.

Cyproheptadine: This is a psychoactive anti-histamine that has an appetite stimulation side effect. It is available as a pill and is typically used twice daily.

Prednisolone/Prednisone: This hormonal anti-inflammatory has a number of uses in the treatment of immune mediated conditions, inflammatory conditions, cancer therapy and many other situations. One of its side effects is increased appetite and it is sometimes used for this effect, though because it affects so many body systems, it is generally not used for its appetite effect alone.

These medications represent non-invasive ways to medically improve appetite.

Assisted Feeding

Non-invasive methods are all well and good but the bottom line is that an animal that does not eat will get sicker and ultimately die. Receiving nutrients is the basis of recovery and one cannot simply wait around for days for medications to work. Nutrients must be delivered ideally in a way that is not stressful for either the pet or the human caretaker.

Feeding Tubes

The larger size of the tube allows for blenderized diets which can be prepared at home for less expense than prepared liquid diets. Feeding does not require fussing with the pet’s face and thus is more comfortable. Bandages must be kept clean around the area, and tubes must be kept in place for a minimum amount of time to allow for proper scar tissue to form, sealing the feeding hole to the outer tissue. When the time comes, the tube can be pulled, and the hole seals up. These kinds of tubes require brief surgical placement, and thus anesthetic risks apply. 

Nasogastric tubes (N-G) that go through the nose require no anesthesia to place but do require an Elizabethan collar to prevent the pet from yanking the tube out. They can accommodate only a liquid diet because of their small diameter and are difficult to manage at home. Most animals will not want a piece of equipment attached to their face and will try to remove it. N-G tubes are best used for patients that are too sick to try to pull out the tube. Alternatively, they can be placed for the feeding process and then removed.

Syringe or Force Feeding

 Feeding too quickly can lead to choking or food aspiration if the feeder is too aggressive. Talk with your veterinarian before using this method, as it can be detrimental to your pet.

Nutritional support is essential to proper recovery and it is important to realize that there are several techniques available to see that the pet does not suffer extra debilitation from malnourishment. If you think your pet has a problem with weight loss or inadequate appetite, do not wait until the problem is extreme; see your veterinarian promptly.

Pet food marketing can get confusing. The labeling does not provide detailed nutritional information and it’s easily misunderstood by consumers. Try as you might, sometimes reading the label doesn’t give you enough answers. However, the more you know about what pet food labels indicate – and don’t – the better off your pet will be.

What is AAFCO?

AAFCO is the go-to organization for understanding animal feed, including food for pets. It does not regulate or inspect anything, nor is it a government agency. It is a group whose members are government agencies representing the 50 states, Canada, and the federal government. It is not a regulatory body and has no ability to monitor or enforce specific food manufacturing procedures. Animal feed specialists indicate to them what is appropriate for a specific species, and AAFCO provides model feed laws. AAFCO does not approve or certify any pet food, treat, or supplement products. The FDA, not AAFCO, regulates pet food, and FDA is a member of AAFCO.

State feed control officials can choose to adopt these model feed laws – if they do, then monitoring and enforcement duties are the responsibility of the individual state. Pet food manufacturers that sell food must comply with all relevant federal or state laws. Most pet foods sold in multiple states will comply with the AAFCO guidelines.

AAFCO relies on current scientific knowledge to provide guidelines for pet food composition which, if followed, minimize the risk of malnutrition. On the other hand, the FDA enforces food safety through the Federal Food Drug and Cosmetic Act, which demands that pet foods, like human foods, be “pure and wholesome, safe to eat, produced under sanitary conditions, contain no harmful substances, and be truthfully labeled.” Therefore, pet food manufacturers are legally responsible for providing nutritionally adequate, safe, and wholesome products that conform to local, state, and federal law.

AAFCO requires nine components to be printed on a pet food label:

1.   Brand and product name
2.   Net quantity statement
3.   Manufacturer or distributor information
4. Calorie content statement
   1. Energy content on a kcal/kg and kcal/common unit as fed basis as well as how this was determined (measured or calculated).
5. Nutritional adequacy statement
   1. Specifies whether the product carries a complete and balanced claim, and if so, how the claim was substantiated as well as the species and life stage for which the product is intended.
6. Guaranteed analysis
   1. Minimum crude protein and crude fat and maximum moisture and crude fiber (as fed basis) are required; other nutrients are optional.
7. Ingredient list
   1.  Must be listed in descending order of weight; ingredients must be as defined by AAFCO; however, it is not possible to tell the relative contributions of ingredients to any particular nutrients (the ingredient list is not a recipe). Note that ingredients, as defined in AAFCO, are not often similar to those typically used/defined for human foods; for example, “chicken” must include both flesh and skin and can include bone.
8.   Species designation
9. Feeding directions
   1. Must be given for each life stage if the diet is formulated for more than one.
   2. Target animal weights can be given as wide ranges, and no requirement for a specific equation to use to determine the energy needs of target animals. 

1. If the life stage is growth or all life stages, the claim must also include one of the following depending on the calcium content of the product (maximums vary):
   1. “including the growth of large size dogs (70 lb or more as an adult)”
   2. 2. “except for growth of large size dogs (70 lb or more as an adult)”

How are AAFCO feeding trials conducted?

The guidelines for an AAFCO feeding trial vary depending on the diet type being evaluated. There are four protocols: maintenance, growth, gestation/lactation, and all life stages. Although the minimum standards for each type of trial must be met, companies may add on other components to a feeding trial, such as plasma amino acid measurement, digestibility studies, full blood chemistry panels, and complete blood counts to gain additional information about the suitability of their diets for the life stage being tested.

Foods can be put through AAFCO feeding trials even if they do not qualify for a “formulated to meet AAFCO” feeding statement due to deficient or excessive levels of nutrients. One example is veterinary therapeutic diets formulated for chronic kidney disease, which are intentionally formulated to contain phosphorus (+/- protein) at concentrations below the AAFCO Food Nutrient Profiles for adult maintenance; many of these have passed maintenance feeding trials and thus have a “feeding trial” nutritional adequacy statement on the bag. If they have not undergone feeding trials, they must carry the statement: “This product is intended for intermittent or supplemental feeding only.” Such diets are not allowed to reference the AAFCO Food Nutrient Profiles on the label. Theoretically, the flip side is that diets that fail feeding trials but contain nutrient levels within the specified minimum and maximum concentrations per AAFCO Food Nutrient Profiles can be marketed with a “formulated to meet” adequacy statement. Ideally, diets are formulated to comply with the concentrations specified by the AAFCO Food Nutrient Profiles and then pass appropriate feeding trials.

For adult maintenance canine and feline diets, the feeding trial guidelines are:

• 8 animals older than 1 yr. must start the test.
• At the start all animals must be a normal weight and health, and weight is monitored weekly. Complete veterinary examinations are mandated at the initiation and completion of the test.
• A blood test is to be taken from each animal at the start and finish of the test for four parameters: (hemoglobin, packed cell volume, alkaline phosphatase, and albumin).
• For 6 months, the animal must only eat the food being tested.
• The animals finishing the test must not lose more than 15 percent of their body weight.
• During the test, none of the animals used are to die or be removed because of nutritional causes.
• 6 of the 8 animals starting must finish the test.
• Data are compared to a concurrent control group or to historical colony averages
  

For growth canine and feline diets, the feeding trial guidelines are:

• 8 animals NO older than 8 weeks must start the test. Juvenile animals should be obtained from at least 3 dams.
• At start all animals must be normal weight and healthy, and weight is monitored weekly. Complete veterinary examinations are mandated at the initiation and completion of the test.
• A blood test is to be taken from each animal at the start and finish of the test (hemoglobin, packed cell volume, alkaline phosphatase, albumin).
• For 10 weeks, the animal used must only eat the food being tested.
• During the test, none of the animals used are to die or be removed because of nutritional causes.
• 6 of the 8 animals starting must finish the test.
• Data are compared to a concurrent control group or to historical colony averages
  

For reproduction canine and feline diets, the feeding trial guidelines are:

• 8 animals older than 1 year and on at least their 2^nd heat must start the test
• At the start all animals must be normal weight and healthy, and weight is monitored weekly. Complete veterinary examinations are mandated at the initiation and completion of the test. Offspring are examined within 72 hours of birth and at the end of the test.
• A blood test is to be taken from each animal at the start and finish of the test (hemoglobin, packed cell volume, alkaline phosphatase, albumin).
• Litter size is recorded.
• From the onset of estrus to 4 weeks after parturition, the animal (and offspring) used must only eat the food being tested.
• During the test, none of the animals used are to die or be removed because of nutritional causes.
• 6 of the 8 animals starting must finish the test.
• Data are compared to a concurrent control group or to historical colony averages.
  

Do AAFCO feeding trials accomplish what they claim to accomplish?

Many pet owners and clinicians have raised the concern that AAFCO feeding trials do not represent what really happens in a pet’s life, i.e., that feeding a diet for six months is not the same as feeding a diet for 10 years. That is true. However, although AAFCO trials are imperfect, they do identify most serious acute and semi-acute nutritional deficiencies or excesses, and some minor ones. Furthermore, manufacturers are free to supplement the minimum protocol requirements with additional measures of nutritional adequacy. Also, consider that diets for growth, gestation/lactation, or all life stages get tested more rigorously compared to maintenance since the nutritional demands of those animals are greater.

Evaluation of diets under AAFCO guidelines also includes an examination of the nutrient content of the diet being tested. The nutrient content can be determined either by testing a sample of the finished diet or by using the nutrient content of the individual ingredients in the food to calculate the diet composition. The latter is less desirable, since ingredients are naturally variable in nutrient content and because processing and nutrient interactions could alter bioavailability (how much can actually be absorbed and used by your pet’s body) in the final diet. There is no requirement for either in vivo or laboratory testing of pet food products if the formulation method of substantiating nutritional adequacy is used.

Some companies have performed other in vivo testing (in-vivo meaning taking place within a living thing) and even lifelong feeding trials to demonstrate that their diets provide complete and balanced nutrition for the expected feeding duration (i.e., “for life”).

Board-certified veterinary nutritionists in clinical practice are alerted to dietary issues with specific diets because of extensive interaction with clients, practitioners, and each other. Therefore, these specialists are often a reliable resource for determining which diets are causing disease problems.

In addition, the World Small Animal Veterinary Association Nutrition Toolkit developed by the WSAVA Global Nutrition Committee provides many useful nutrition resources including Recommendations on Selecting Pet Foods. This document lists eight questions to help owners assess pet foods:

Factors to consider about a brand:

1. Employment of a full-time qualified nutritionist (Ph.D. in animal nutrition or board-certified by the American or European specialty veterinary colleges).
2. Who formulates the diets and what are the credentials of this individual
3. Details of quality control measures and finished products
4. Availability of any product research (published in peer-reviewed journals or elsewhere).
   

Things to look for on a pet food label:

5. Nutritional adequacy statement: Is the diet balanced, and does it meet the needs of the individual pet (is a diet intended for a puppy suitable for meeting the needs during growth?)
6. Calorie content
7. Company contact information
8. Who makes the food?
   

It is ideal for a manufacturer to have a qualified nutritionist as a full-time employee rather than just as a consultant. Dr. Cailin Heinze, a board-certified nutritionist, additionally prefers companies that perform testing above and beyond AAFCO trials, especially with veterinary therapeutic diets. Furthermore, Dr. Heinze looks for company longevity as a sign of a successful track record and is critical of “guerrilla marketing” in pet supply stores (aggressive, emotion-based strategies directly to consumers). Finally, she looks for companies willing to share full nutritional profiles (e.g. full or typical analysis) of their diets rather than just a guaranteed analysis, and provide updated information with regular batch testing.

Understanding what’s best for your pet isn’t always easy. Oftentimes the only way to get a clear answer to your question is to telephone (not email) the manufacturer. However, the best chance for your pet’s good health is to begin with food bearing an AAFCO nutritional adequacy statement on its label. 

A. phagocytophilum can infect a wide range of mammals. In addition to dogs, the clinical disease has been documented in cats, cattle, sheep, goats, llamas, and humans.

Because of common vectors and rodent reservoirs, co-infection with Borrelia burgdorferi can be seen and can lead to more severe illness.

Clinical Signs and Prognosis

Many dogs exposed to granulocytic anaplasmosis do not get obvious signs of the condition. If signs are seen, they most often occur during the acute phase of infection, which is 1 to 2 weeks after transmission. The signs may be vague and include lethargy, lack of appetite, and fever. Some dogs may become lame because their joints are painful. Less common signs include vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, and difficulty breathing.

The prognosis for granulocytic anaplasmosis is quite good.

Infectious Cyclic Thrombocytopenia

Infectious cyclic thrombocytopenia is an infection of blood platelets. It is caused by Anaplasma platys.

Anaplasma platys transmission has not been fully determined, although tick vectors are probable. The organism has been found in Rhipicephalus and Dermacentor ticks.

Clinical Signs and Prognosis

Signs include lack of appetite, lethargy, fever, bruising on the gums and stomach, nosebleeds, and weight loss.

Many dogs with infectious cyclic thrombocytopenia have only mild clinical disease, so the prognosis is generally good.  

Diagnosis

Blood tests and urinalysis are the main diagnostic tools for anaplasmosis. The blood tests usually include a complete blood count, blood smear evaluation, biochemistry panel, serology to look for antibodies and polymerase chain reaction (PCR) assays. If the dog is lame, radiographs and analysis of joint fluid are usually included.

Treatment

Treatment includes antibiotics, pain relievers, and anti-inflammatory drugs.

Doxycycline is the most commonly used antibiotic. Most dogs respond within one to two days after they first take doxycycline. Other antibiotic options are tetracycline or minocycline.

Analgesia and anti-inflammatory drugs may be needed for joint pain. Let your veterinarian choose the anti-inflammatory, rather than choosing and dosing it yourself because dogs metabolize these medicines differently than humans do. Your veterinarian will have the most appropriate medication.

Disease Prevention

Because there is no vaccine for anaplasmosis, appropriate tick control is critical to preventing this disease. Preventing ticks from attaching and removing any ticks from your pet within a few hours of attachment is vital.

Note: Dogs with anaplasmosis may also be infected with other tick-borne organisms (Ehrlichia, Borrelia, etc.), so infected dogs should be screened for those diseases also.

What is the anatomy of an anal gland?

Each animal has two glands located on the left and right side of the anus. Each gland connects to the end of the anal canal through a small connecting tube (duct). When your pet is defecating (pooping), the feces (poop) passes through the anal canal and squeezes the sacs, releasing the smelly fluid.

What is an anal gland abscess?

An anal gland abscess is a painful infection of the anal glands. During an infection, pus builds up in the sac. The infection prevents the foul-smelling anal gland fluid from leaving the sac. The anal gland swells with the fluids and may even burst. This abscess is extremely painful and should be treated immediately.

Can my pet get an anal gland abscess?

Animals with anal glands can have an anal gland abscess. There is no breed, gender, or age group that is more likely to have this happen. There are a variety of potential explanations of why the anal gland swells and even ruptures, such as underlying diseases or allergies. By working together, you and your veterinarian will create the best treatment plan to prevent abscesses from forming in the future.

What are the symptoms?

• Scooting across the floor to put pressure on the anal gland and release the fluid
• Trauma and biting of the tail and anal area
• Matting of the hair at the anal area
• Reluctance to sit and poop
• Constipation and anal discharge
• Crying, whimpering or signs of pain
• Being withdrawn and lethargic, not wanting to eat
• Swelling and redness of anal area

Should I treat the anal gland abscess?

Yes, and treat it immediately. Although this is not a medical emergency, make an appointment with your veterinarian as soon as possible. An abscess is painful for your pet and infection can spread to different parts of the anus. The veterinarian will clean the abscess and treat the infection. In some cases, anesthesia or sedation is needed to clean it. Treatment only stops after your veterinarian has rechecked your pet to determine if the abscess is healing properly. The goal of this treatment is to minimize the swelling and discomfort to your pet. Treatment may include:

• Cleaning and unclogging of the anal duct to prevent fluid buildup
• Anti-inflammatory medications to reduce swelling and pain
• Antibiotics to treat infection
• Recheck by your veterinarian is necessary

Is there any additional testing needed?

There may be additional testing depending on each case. Standard tests that may be needed include complete lab work, especially if anesthesia is needed. In complex or unusual cases, culture or biopsy may be needed.

Does my pet need surgery?

These sacs only produce scent markers and are not necessary for your pet’s health. If your pet continues to have infected and abscessed anal glands, a more permanent treatment may be needed. This involves removing the anal glands entirely. The surgery may affect sphincter strength, causing incontinence. This severe side effect makes surgery a last resort for chronic anal gland abscess offenders.

How can I prevent it?

If your pet continues to have anal gland swelling and infection, your veterinarian may suggest high-fiber diets, hypoallergenic diets, or surgical removal of the anal sacs. Knowing the cause of your pet’s continued anal gland abscesses is important for coming up with a prevention method. Your veterinarian will work with you to come up with the best plan to prevent discomfort and pain in your pet.

In conjunctivitis those membranes become red and swollen. Dogs and cats with conjunctivitis normally have cloudy, yellow, or greenish discharge from the eyes; a lot of blinking or squinting; and redness and swelling around the eye. Green or yellow discharge often indicates a bacterial infection; clear or whitish discharge is more likely to be caused by allergies or a bit of debris in the eye. Usually both eyes are affected, but not always. Sometimes other signs are seen, such as itching, hairlessness around the eye, discharge from the nose, sneezing, or coughing.

What we normally call “pink eye” in people is a type of conjunctivitis. The condition can be caused by several reasons, such as bacteria, herpes virus or allergies.

Any breed of dog or cat may develop allergic conjunctivitis. All breeds predisposed to atopic dermatitis, a hypersensitivity or over-reaction to a variety of commonplace and otherwise harmless substances like pollen, are also predisposed to allergic conjunctivitis. Allergic conjunctivitis is most common in young adults but can occur at any age.

In this allergic condition, the following are frequent contributors:

• Allergies
• Atopy (genetic tendency towards allergies)
• Dust
• Food allergy
• House dust, molds

Treatment

Allergic conjunctivitis is most commonly treated with eyedrops or ointments containing corticosteroids, such as dexamethasone or hydrocortisone. Your veterinarian may check first for a scratch on the cornea (called a corneal ulcer) by instilling a yellow dye called fluorescein. If the eye has a scratch, medication without steroids is used, as steroids can delay healing of the scratch. Oral corticosteroids and/or antihistamines may also be helpful, especially in those pets with associated skin disease. Over-the-counter topical antihistamines may be beneficial, particularly in itchy dogs, but ask your veterinarian which one is best for your pet’s situation. However, topical mast cell stabilizers and antihistamines have variable clinical results.

A sterile saline eye wash can be used once or twice a day to clean the eyes and remove the accumulated discharge. Saline may also reduce surface irritation by flushing dirt, dust, debris, and pollens away from the eye.

Preventing damage to the eye is important as pets with allergic conjunctivitis may scratch at their eye with their paws or rub their face on furniture. This rubbing can lead to a corneal ulcer and associated pain and damage to the eye. Using an Elizabethan collar to prevent scratching may be part of the treatment plan from your veterinarian. This is especially important in short-faced breeds like pugs and shih-tzus, who are particularly prone to eye injuries. A recheck examination may be recommended by your veterinarian after treatment. If signs have not improved, your veterinarian may suggest sending your pet to a veterinary dermatologist or ophthalmologist for a work-up or recommending allergen testing to try and determine what your pet is allergic to. This step is usually reserved for dogs or cats with severe allergies.

Prevention

Allergic conjunctivitis is caused by allergies, so the best way to prevent it from happening again is to remove whatever your pet is allergic to from your home, if possible. Even if you can figure out what allergen they are reacting to and remove it or deal with it, you may not be able to eliminate it. If dust is found to be a cause, keep household dust to a minimum, and consider using an air purifier to filter out dust.

Allergic skin testing or food trials may be needed to find out the cause of the inflammation. In those cases, you may be able to determine if your dog or cat is reacting to something like dust or an ingredient in their food.

In many cases, allergic conjunctivitis can’t be cured, but with the help of your veterinarian (and perhaps a few steps taken around the house) it can be managed and you can make your pet more comfortable.