It turns out each type has a different potential for toxicity. In order to understand which types of chocolates are more toxic, we will need to review how chocolate is made.

Cocao trees, which require a tropical climate, are farmed in orchards like any other fruit-bearing tree. The fruit of the cacao tree, called a cacao pod, is sweet and attracts monkeys or other wildlife who eat the fruit but not the bitter seeds. The seeds are discarded in the natural setting, allowing new trees to grow. Outside of the farm situation, the seeds cannot be released from the fruit unless some type of animal breaks the fruit open. Ironically, it is the bitter seeds, packed with theobromine and caffeine, which are used to make chocolate.

The pods grow directly off the trunk of the cacao tree and must be harvested by hand so as not to damage the tree. The pods are split, and the seeds are scooped out and left to ferment under banana leaves for about a week. This process turns the cocoa seeds into the rich brown color with which we are familiar and creates the chocolate flavor we crave.

The seeds are then dried out for another week, packed in sacks, and shipped to chocolate manufacturers. The seeds must be roasted, ground, pressed to remove the seed oil (this oil is called cocoa butter, which is used in sunscreens, white chocolate, and cosmetics, among other things), and finally tempered to create the exact consistency.

• Chocolate liquor is the liquid that results from grinding the hulled cacao beans.
• Cocoa butter is the fat that is extracted from chocolate liquor. It is combined with sugar and flavoring to create white chocolate. White chocolate is not directly toxic as it has no chocolate liquor, but its rich fat content can be a problem, as discussed below.
• Cocoa powder is the solid that remains after the cocoa butter is removed from the chocolate liquor. The powder can be treated with alkali in a process called Dutching, or it can be left alone. Note the low-fat nature of cocoa powder, hence its use in low-fat baking.
• Unsweetened (baking) chocolate is basically straight chocolate liquor containing 50% to 60% cocoa butter.
• Dark chocolate (also known as semisweet chocolate) is chocolate that is 35% chocolate liquor (the rest being sugar, vanilla, or lecithin).
• Milk chocolate is chocolate that is at least 10% chocolate liquor, the rest being milk solids, vanilla, or lecithin.
• Chocolate liquor is the one with all the problem biochemicals. The more chocolate liquor is in the end product (i.e., how dark the chocolate is), the more toxic it is.                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Pancreatitis

Sometimes we eat chocolate plain, as in candy. Sometimes we eat it baked into cakes, mixed into ice cream, etc. Sometimes we share these treats with pets, and sometimes, our pets share these treats without our permission. As far as pets are concerned, the first potential problem with these sweets is the fat. A sudden high-fat meal (such as demolishing a bag of chocolate bars left accessible at Halloween time) can create a lethal metabolic disease in dogs called pancreatitis.  Vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain are just the beginning of this disaster. Remember, in the case of pancreatitis, it is the fat that causes the problem more than the chocolate itself.

The fat and sugar in the chocolate can create an unpleasant but temporary upset stomach. This is what happens in most chocolate ingestion cases.

Theobromine and Caffeine

Theobromine causes:

• Vomiting 
• Diarrhea 
• Hyperactivity 
• Tremors 
• Seizures 
• Racing heart rhythm progressing to abnormal rhythms 
• Death in severe cases

Toxic doses of theobromine are 9 mg per pound of the dog’s weight for mild signs and up to 18 mg per pound for severe signs. Milk chocolate contains 44 mg per ounce of theobromine, semisweet chocolate contains 150 mg per ounce, and baking chocolate contains 390 mg per ounce. White chocolate has virtually no theobromine and is only a problem because of its fat content. These calculations seem complex, and they certainly can be. What it boils down to is that your veterinarian will need to know the type of chocolate and how many ounces were most likely consumed. If it is not clear how much chocolate was actually consumed, the largest possible amount should be determined based on how much candy, cake, etc., is missing.

It takes nearly four days for the effects of chocolate to work its way out of a dog’s system. If the chocolate was only just eaten, it is possible to induce vomiting; otherwise, hospitalization and support are needed. It is common for clinics to receive phone calls about pets who were found to have consumed a chocolate product, and the owner wishes to know if the amount was toxic. In order to answer such questions, it is necessary to know the pet’s weight, the type of chocolate, and the amount of chocolate. Chocolate calculators are available at most veterinary practices, and it can be determined relatively quickly if the pet should be made to vomit immediately. 

Treatment

As mentioned, the first step is to remove as much chocolate from the body as possible by inducing vomiting or using adsorbents such as activated charcoal to bind the chocolate and keep it from being absorbed by the GI tract.  For many patients, removing undigested chocolate converts the toxicity from neurologic poisoning to just an upset stomach that is easily managed. If too much caffeine/theobromine has been absorbed, the treatment is support: sedation for the tremors and intravenous medications for any cardiac arrhythmias. Support is needed until the toxins have been processed and removed from the body so expect severe cases to need intravenous fluid support and hospitalization for a few days.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Keep chocolate treats where your pet cannot reach them.

The ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control lists these products as the most common ones that can poison pets. These are not the only ones, just the most common ones.

Household Products

• Bleach
• Carpet fresheners
• Carpet Shampoo
• Essential oils
• Fabric softener sheets
• Grout
• Toilet cleaning tablets
• Vinegar and water

Medications and Cosmetics

• Adderall
• Petroleum jelly
• Aspirin, baby aspirin
• Bar soap and face wash
• Breath fresheners (Xylitol)
• Cigarettes and nicotine patches
• Ibuprofen and naproxen
• Kaopectate and Pepto Bismol
• Mosquito repellent with DEET
• Pseudoephedrine (and other nasal decongestants)
• Sorbitol
• Topical creams/ointments (read labels for ingredients)

When temperatures rise, it can be a challenge to keep pets cool while still being able to enjoy the outdoors with our four-legged friends. One response is to shave dogs, but here are some factors to consider before reaching for the clippers.

Additionally, many other factors besides hair coat affect how well dogs cope with heat. Dogs that are overweight (obese) can overheat easily. Because panting is an important way for your dog to cool off, dogs with short snouts (brachycephalic) can be more heat intolerant than other dogs.

What are the drawbacks of coat clipping?

Many dogs have their coats clipped without any problems. However, consider the following before clipping your dog’s hair coat:

• Clipping can injure the skin: Especially if the clippers overheat or the cut is too close to the skin, clipping can lead to burns, cuts, and scratches that become infected.
• Less hair can mean more sunburn risk: A dog’s hair coat helps protect the skin from sunburn. Without that hair, consider minimizing UV exposure by using sunscreen.
• Hair may regrow slowly: Many factors affect hair regrowth. If your dog has a health condition or medication that affects hair growth, the hair coat may be slow to regrow. In some dog breeds, clipping may lead to hair that grows back with a different texture or color.

If you decide to clip your dog’s hair coat, consider taking your dog to a professional groomer or your veterinarian to make sure the hair is cut properly.

What else can I do besides clipping my dog’s hair coat to help them with the heat?

Grooming your pet on a regular basis helps remove excess undercoat. Grooming will prevent and remove hair mats, which decrease air circulation around hairs. You can also help your pets cope with heat by providing shade and clean water while outdoors. During the summer months, avoid overexerting your dog and schedule runs and other activities to when the temperatures are cooler.

The most important thing, though, is to clean up messes immediately. The longer any bodily fluid stays on the floor, the harder it will be to clean up. If accidents aren’t cleaned up right away, they will encourage your pets to use that spot for elimination, which is exactly what you do not want.

That said, set up your place with pets in mind.

Shedding is the bane of many pet owners. It can be tiresome to clean up all that hair so often, but there’s an easy way to lessen the sheer volume of loose fur: brushing your pets takes out the middle man, so to speak, as you grab the hair in a contained way rather than vacuuming and sweeping. Also, it’s a bonding experience for you and your pet, and allows you to check for lumps and bumps. However, most of us don’t do it often enough.

A good vacuum cleaner is a necessity for those with carpeting, and using one with a high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter can help. Several vacuums are available that are designed with pets in mind and will likely have better success with fur-filled dust bunnies than those not designed for pets. After sweeping, sweep again with an electrostatic wipe (or start with an electrostatic mop) for non-carpeted floors. For deep cleaning, it’s hard to go wrong with a steamer mop as they do not use any chemicals and therefore cannot harm your pets or you.

Pets increase the volume of indoor dust, so dusting is usually needed a bit more often than in homes without pets. Microfiber mitts make the job easy.

If your pet has a favorite napping place, leaving a sheet or towel there allows you to scoop up the dirt and hair, shake the sheet or towel outside, and toss in the wash. That’s easier than picking up fur from all over the house. If your cat enjoys napping in front of the heat register, leave a bed or towel there with a placemat or rubber sheet underneath it just in case of an accident.

During rain or snow season, mats and towels are your best friends. Outside the door the dogs come in, place a washable mat. The rubber-backed ones wash easily, but if placed in the dryer too often the plastic backing will shred, so it’s best to let those air dry. Car mats work too. If the door height will allow it, also place one just inside the same door. Put a bowl of water (not cold) and a towel or microfiber mitt by the door and have your dog sit on the mat so you can wipe paws with a towel before the dog enters. (The microfiber mitt is also good for getting dirt off your dog’s dry paws.) You can either spend some time training your dog to sit on the mat or spend far more time during his lifetime cleaning up paw prints.

If you are shopping for new carpeting, opt for all-synthetic fibers. Unlike natural fibers, synthetic ones don’t absorb everything. Natural fibers will hold stains and odors. The deeper the carpeting, the harder it is to clean, plus the deeper rugs provide a perfect environment for fleas. Think about colors; a solid cream will show more dirt than even a slight pattern. Some people get carpeting that matches the color of their pets.

When looking at furniture, go for upholstery with a smooth surface, such as top-grain semi-aniline leathers, microfiber or microsuede, as those fabrics will resist claw marks so any couch-scratching cat will not be encouraged. Avoid upholstery with a lot of texture, and don’t use wicker. Materials with open or loose weave is just asking your dog and cat to engage in the battle of boredom with your furniture.

Keeping on top of brushing and cleaning up messes immediately goes a long ways toward keeping a house clean whether you clean it regularly or when you can’t stand it anymore.