Tag: pets

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Reverse Sneezing in Dogs

What is Reverse Sneezing?

Reverse sneezing is a disconcerting event in which a dog makes unpleasant respiratory sounds that sound like it is dying — or will die in the next few minutes. This is called reverse sneezing because it sounds a bit like a dog inhaling sneezes. The sound the dog makes can be scary, and reverse sneezing sounds similar to the honking noise made by a dog with a collapsing trachea. However, the good news is that reverse sneezing is a far simpler condition that usually does not need any treatment. 

Because it can be difficult for an owner to recognize a reverse sneezing episode when it first happens, it is a good idea to check with the veterinarian to determine if it’s reverse sneezing or something more serious.

Causes of Reverse Sneezing

The most common cause of reverse sneezing is an irritation of the soft palate and throat that results in a spasm. During the spasm, the dog’s neck will extend and the chest will expand as the dog tries harder to inhale. The problem is that the trachea has narrowed, and it’s hard to get the normal amount of air into the lungs.

Anything that irritates the throat can cause this spasm and subsequent sneeze. Causes include excitement, eating or drinking, exercise intolerance, pulling on a leash, collar/tags pressing on and irritating the throat, mites, pollen, foreign bodies caught in the throat, perfumes, viruses, household chemicals, allergies, and post-nasal drip.

If an irritant in the house is the cause, taking the dog outside can help simply because the dog will no longer be inhaling the irritant. Brachycephalic dogs (those with flat faces, such as Pugs and Boxers) with elongated soft palates occasionally suck the elongated palate into the throat while inhaling, causing reverse sneezing. Small dogs are particularly prone to it, possibly because they have smaller throats.

Monitoring and Treatment

Reverse sneezing itself rarely requires treatment. If the sneezing stops, the spasm is over. Some veterinarians may recommend massaging the dog’s throat to stop the spasm; some may suggest covering the nostrils for a few seconds to make the dog swallow, which clears out whatever the irritation is and stops the sneezing.

Treatment of the underlying cause, if known, is useful. If mites are in the laryngeal area, your veterinarian may use drugs such as ivermectin to get rid of the mites. If allergies are the root of the problem, your veterinarian may prescribe antihistamines. If reverse sneezing becomes a chronic problem rather than an occasional occurrence, your veterinarian may need to look up the nasal passages (rhinoscopy), and may even need to take a biopsy to determine the cause of the problem. Sometimes, however, no cause can be identified.

Some dogs have these episodes their entire lives; some dogs develop the condition only as they age. In most dogs, however, the spasm is a temporary problem that goes away on its own, leaving the dog with no after-effects.

Cats are less likely to reverse sneeze than dogs are.  However, owners should always have the veterinarian examine the cat in case it’s feline asthma and not a reverse sneeze. Feline asthma requires more treatment than reverse sneezing does.

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Respiratory Disease in Dogs Sweeping Across the US? Outbreak of Disease or Media Attention?

Many dog owners are currently asking, “What’s going on with this reported outbreak of respiratory disease in dogs in the US? What new disease is this?

I’m not sure there’s a new disease here. I’m not even sure if there’s a major outbreak (or any outbreak). Various groups are reporting stories of respiratory disease, which we refer to as canine infectious respiratory disease complex, or CIRDC, in dogs in various parts of the US.

CIRDC signs include:

  1.  A “honking” cough that may sound like retching
  2.  Sneezing, and discharge from the eyes and or nose
  3.  Lethargy, decreased appetite, and labored breathing
  4.  Not all dogs show all of these signs, and each case can be slightly different.

There’s always limited info about numbers due to a lack of funding, no real surveillance system, and testing that doesn’t necessarily change treatment for these dogs. Also, the disease description is usually vague…coughing dogs, some that get pneumonia, and unfortunately, a few that die.

The issue is, this largely describes our normal state. CIRDC is endemic (i.e. always present in dog populations), with various known bacterial and viral causes.  These include canine parainfluenza virus, Bordetella bronchiseptica, canine respiratory coronavirus, canine pneumovirus, canine influenza virus, Streptococcus zooepidemicus… roughly in that order of occurrence, and maybe the mysterious bacteria, Mycoplasma. There are also presumably a range of viruses that have been present for a long time but that we don’t diagnose.

I get lots of emails every week asking whether there’s more or more severe CIRDC activity at the moment. The thing is, I’ve been getting those for years, from across North America. To me, that reflects the fact that there’s always circulation of CIRDC and that we notice it more at times, either because of local clusters or, increasingly, local raises in awareness.

We see CIRDC all the time, everywhere. There’s a background level of disease that usually flies under the radar, alongside periodic clusters. Media and social media can drive outbreak concerns. They can be great to get the word out and help sort out issues, but often, they lead to false alarms.

For example, we might have 100 dogs with CIRDC every week in Guelph (a complete guess since we have no way to track this). Usually, few people hear about it. The dogs typically get better, and life goes on. However, if someone starts talking about it on social media, we might hear about 50 of those 100 cases. All of a sudden, we have an ‘outbreak of a disease affecting dozens of dogs’ when in reality, we might just have our normal background level of disease that people are actually noticing.

The same thing happens more broadly. There are thousands of coughing dogs in the US every day since there are millions of dogs. Once people start talking about it, some of these comments go from, “Oh, my dog is coughing. I guess he picked up something at the park.” to comments like OMG, my dog has this new disease that’s sweeping the nation.” 

With the first approach, no one but the owner usually knows or is concerned.  When people are very worried about their beloved pets, panic, and post on social media, it can lead to further assumptions that things are much scarier or that a “new disease” is developing.

So, what are these reports actually reflecting?

  1. A multistate outbreak caused by some new bacterium/virus      
  2. A multistate outbreak caused by our usual suspects, for some reason      
  3. Unconnected sporadic local outbreaks caused by usual suspects      
  4. A slight increase in baseline disease      
  5. Our normal disease activity has resulted in an outbreak of media attention.      

I suspect it’s one of the last two. My perception is that we have been seeing a bit more CIRDC activity over the past couple of years and that we see a somewhat greater incidence of severe cases.

Other factors to consider:

  • With more cases, we see more severe disease.
  • Brachycephalic or short-nosed breeds (French bulldogs, pugs, etc.) with a higher likelihood of dysfunctional breathing are very popular and much more likely to have severe outcomes from any respiratory disease.
  • Increases in deaths could be linked to the dogs’ physiology, not disease factors.

Things are still unfolding for the veterinary community with CIRDC, but right now there does not appear to be a need for increased concern.

What can you do to protect your dog?

  1. Limit your dog’s contacts, especially traveling family or friends with dogs of unknown health status.
  2. Keep your dog away from sick dogs.
  3. If your dog is sick, keep it away from other dogs.
  4. Talk to your vet about vaccination against causes of CIRDC including canine parainfluenza (CPIV), Bordetella bronchiseptica, and canine influenza (which is more sporadic and vaccine availability is still an issue).

Overall, if you are concerned that your dog may have CIRDC or that they may be exposed due to certain activities, talk to your veterinarian. They can tell you what may increase their chances of contracting CIRDC and what to look out for based on your pet’s health status.

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Ruptured Cranial Cruciate Ligaments in Dogs

The Basics

The knee is a fairly complicated joint. It consists of the femur above, the tibia below, the kneecap (patella) in front, and the bean-like fabellae behind. Chunks of cartilage called the medial and lateral menisci fit between the femur and tibia and offer some cushion-like support. An assortment of ligaments holds everything together, allowing the knee to bend properly.

There are two cruciate ligaments that cross inside the knee joint: the anterior (or, more correctly in animals, cranial) cruciate and the posterior (in animals, the caudal) cruciate. They connect from one side of the femur on top to the opposite side of the tibia on the bottom, the two ligaments forming an X (hence the name cruciate) inside the knee joint. They are named for their attachment site on the tibia (the cranial cruciate attaches to the front of the tibia and the caudal cruciate attaches to the back of the tibia).

This may be hard to visualize based on the description but the illustration above shows the orientation of the two crossing ligaments effectively. The anterior/cranial cruciate ligament prevents the tibia from slipping forward out from under the femur.

Finding the Rupture

The ruptured cruciate ligament is the most common knee injury of dogs; in fact, chances are that any dog with sudden rear leg lameness has a ruptured anterior cruciate ligament rather than something else. The history usually involves a rear leg suddenly so sore that the dog can hardly bear weight on it. If left alone, it will appear to improve over the course of a week or two but the knee will be notably swollen and arthritis will set in quickly. Dogs are often seen by the veterinarian in either the acute stage shortly after the injury or in the chronic stage weeks or months later.

The key to the diagnosis of the ruptured cruciate ligament is the demonstration of an abnormal knee motion called a drawer sign. It is not possible for a normal knee to show this sign.

The Drawer Sign

The veterinarian stabilizes the position of the femur with one hand and manipulates the tibia with the other hand. If the tibia moves forward (like a drawer being opened), the cruciate ligament is ruptured. (See a video of this manipulation.)

Another method is the tibial compression test where the veterinarian stabilizes the femur with one hand and flexes the ankle with the other hand. If the ligament is ruptured, again the tibia moves abnormally forward.

If the rupture occurred some time ago, there will be swelling on side of the knee joint that faces the other leg. This is called a medial buttress and is a sign that arthritis is well along.

It is not unusual for animals to be tense or frightened at the vet’s office. Tense muscles can temporarily stabilize the knee, preventing your veterinarian from being able to try the drawer sign during an examination. Often, sedation is needed to get a good evaluation of the knee. This is especially true with larger dogs. Eliciting a drawer sign can be difficult if the ligament is only partially ruptured so a second opinion may be a good idea if the initial examination is inconclusive.

Since arthritis can set in relatively quickly after a cruciate ligament rupture, radiographs to assess arthritis are helpful. Another reason for radiographs is that occasionally when the cruciate ligament tears, a piece of bone where the ligament attaches to the tibia breaks off as well. This will require surgical repair and the surgeon will need to know about it before beginning surgery. Arthritis present prior to surgery limits the extent of the recovery after surgery though surgery is still needed to slow or even curtail further arthritis development.

How Rupture Happens

Several clinical pictures are seen with ruptured cruciate ligaments. One is a young athletic dog playing roughly who takes a bad step and injures the knee. This is usually a sudden lameness in a young large-breed dog.

A recent study identified the following breeds as being particularly at risk for this phenomenon: Labrador retriever, Golden retriever, Rottweiler, Neapolitan mastiff, Newfoundland, Akita, St. Bernard, Chesapeake Bay retriever, and American Staffordshire terrier.

On the other hand, an older large dog, especially if overweight, can have weakened ligaments and slowly stretch or partially tear them. A partial rupture may be detected or the problem may not become apparent until the ligament breaks completely. In this type of patient, stepping down off the bed or a small jump can be all it takes to break the ligament. The lameness may be acute but have features of more chronic joint disease or the lameness may simply be a more gradual/chronic problem.

Larger, overweight dogs that rupture one cruciate ligament frequently rupture the other one within a year’s time.

An owner should be prepared for another surgery in this time frame.

The cranial cruciate rupture is not limited to large breed dogs. Small dogs can certainly rupture their ligaments as well and, while arthritis is slower to set in when the patient is not as heavy, there is an association with cruciate rupture and medial luxating patella that is very common in small breed dogs. With the patellar luxation, the kneecap flips in and out of the patellar groove. If the condition is relatively mild, it may not require surgical correction but it does stress the cranial cruciate ligament and can predispose it to rupture and need to correct both conditions surgically.

What Happens if the Cruciate Rupture is Not Surgically Repaired

Without an intact cruciate ligament, the knee is unstable. Wear between the bones and meniscal cartilage becomes abnormal and the joint begins to develop degenerative changes. Bone spurs called osteophytes develop resulting in chronic pain and loss of joint motion. This process can be arrested or slowed by surgery but cannot be reversed.

Osteophytes are evident as soon as 1 to 3 weeks after the rupture in some patients. This kind of joint disease is substantially more difficult for a large breed dog to bear, though all dogs will ultimately show degenerative changes. Typically, after several weeks from the time of the acute injury, the dog may appear to get better but is not likely to become permanently normal.

In one study, a group of dogs was studied for 6 months after cruciate rupture. At the end of 6 months, 85% of dogs less than 30 pounds of body weight had regained near normal or improved function while only 19% of dogs over 30 pounds had regained near normal function. Both groups of dogs required at least 4 months to show maximum improvement.

What Happens in Surgical Repair?

There are three different surgical repair techniques commonly used today. Every surgeon will have their own preference for which technique is best for a given patient’s situation.

Extracapsular Repair

This procedure represents the traditional surgical repair for the cruciate rupture. It can be performed without specialized equipment and is far less invasive than the newer procedures described below. First, the knee joint is opened and inspected. The torn or partly torn cruciate ligament is removed. Any bone spurs of significant size are bitten away with an instrument called a rongeur. If the meniscus is torn, the damaged portion is removed. A large, strong suture is passed around the fabella behind the knee and through a hole drilled in the front of the tibia. This tightens the joint to prevent drawer motion, effectively taking over the job of the cruciate ligament.

  • Typically, the dog may carry the leg up for a good two weeks after surgery but will increase knee use over the next 2 months eventually returning to normal.
  • Typically, the dog will require 8 to 12 weeks of exercise restriction after surgery (no running, outside on a leash only including the backyard).
  • The suture placed will break 2 to 12 months after surgery and the dog’s own healed tissue will hold the knee.

Tibial Plateau Leveling Osteotomy (TPLO)

This procedure uses a fresh approach to the biomechanics of the knee joint and was developed with larger breed dogs in mind. The idea is to change the angle at which the femur bears weight on the flat “plateau” of the tibia. The tibia is cut and rotated in such a way that the natural weight-bearing of the dog actually stabilizes the knee joint. As before the knee joint still must be opened and the damaged meniscus removed. The cruciate ligament remnants may or may not be removed depending on the degree of damage.
This surgery is complex and involves special training in this specific technique. Many radiographs are necessary to calculate the angle of the osteotomy (the cut in the tibia). This procedure typically costs substantially more than extracapsular repair as it is more invasive to the joint.

  • Typically, most dogs are touching their toes to the ground by 10 days after surgery although it can take up to 3 weeks.
  • As with other techniques, 8-12 weeks of exercise restriction are needed.
  • Full function is generally achieved 3 to 4 months after surgery and the dog may return to normal activity.

Tibial Tuberosity Advancement (TTA)

The TTA similarly uses the biomechanics of the knee to create stability though this procedure changes the angle of the patellar ligament. This is done by cutting and repositioning the tibial crest where the patellar ligament attaches and implanting a titanium or steel “cage,” “fork,” and plate as well as bone grafts to stabilize the new angle. Like the TPLO, bone is cut, and special equipment is needed including metal implant plates. Similar recoveries are seen relative to the TPLO.

Which Procedure is Better?

The TTA and TPLO are much more invasive, much more expensive, and require special equipment and specially trained personnel. They have a greater potential for complications. Are they worth it? For dogs under 45 lbs, it is generally accepted that there is no clear advantage of the newer procedures over extracapsular repair. For larger dogs, there is great controversy. For all the theories behind TPLO and TTA, results in one year post-operative seem to be the same regardless of which of the three procedures the dog had performed. There is some evidence that recovery to normal function may be faster with the newer procedures. Controversy continues and there are strong opinions favoring each of the three procedures. Discuss options with your veterinarian in order to decide.

General Rehabilitation after Surgery

Rehabilitation following the extracapsular repair method can begin as soon as the pet goes home. The area can be chilled with a padded ice pack for 10 minutes a couple of times daily. (Do not try to make up for a skipped treatment by icing the area longer; prolonged cold exposure can cause injury.) Passive range of motion exercise where the knee is gently flexed and extended can also help. It is important not to induce pain when moving the limb. Let the patient guide you. Avoid twisting the leg. After the stitches or staples are out (or after the skin has healed in about 10 to 14 days), water treadmill exercises can be used if a facility is available. This requires strict observation and, if possible, the patient should wear a life jacket. Rehabilitation for patients with the intracapsular repair is similar but slower in progression.

Rehabilitation after TPLO or TTA is gentler. Icing as above and rest are the main modes of therapy. After 3 to 4 weeks, an increase in light activity can be introduced. A water treadmill is helpful. No jumping, running or stair-climbing is allowed at first. Expect the osteotomy site to require a good 6 weeks to heal.

What if the Rupture Isn’t Discovered for Years and Joint Disease is Already Advanced?

A dog with arthritis pain from an old cruciate rupture may still benefit from a TPLO surgery and possibly from the TTA. Ask your veterinarian if it may be worth having a surgery specialist take a look at the knee. Most cases must make do with medical management. Visit our section on arthritis treatment.

Meniscal Injury

We mentioned the menisci as part of the knee joint. The bones of all joints are capped with cartilage so as provide a slippery surface where the bones contact each other (if the bones contact each other without cartilage, they grind each other down). In addition to these cartilage caps, the stifle joint has two blocks of cartilage in between the bones. These blocks are called the menisci and serve to distribute approximately 65% of the compressive load delivered to the knee. The only other joint with a meniscus is the jaw (temporomandibular joint).

When the cruciate ligament ruptures, the medial (on the inner side of the knee) meniscus frequently tears and must either be removed, partly removed, or ideally repaired. This is generally done at the time of cruciate ligament surgery and we would be remiss not to mention it.

Pets with meniscal damage may have an audible clicking sound when they walk or when the knee is examined, but for a definitive diagnosis, the menisci must actually be inspected during surgery. It is difficult to access the menisci and thus repairing a tear in the meniscus is problematic; furthermore, the poor blood supply to the menisci also makes good healing less likely. For these reasons, removal of the damaged portion of the meniscus is the most common surgical choice. This leaves some meniscus behind to distribute the compression load on the knee but removes the painful, ineffective portion.

Areas of current research include techniques to improve blood supply to the healing meniscus so that repair can be more feasible. If meniscal damage has occurred in a cruciate rupture, arthritis is inevitable and surgery should be considered a palliative procedure.

Enhancing Recovery after Surgery

Confinement

Enhancing recovery post-operatively is largely about strict confinement early. This cannot be over-emphasized. Be prepared to crate your dog or employ a pen such as a child’s playpen depending on the dog’s size. A corral of sorts can be constructed with boxes and a baby gate. Be sure you understand the instructions with regard to a gradual return to exercise over several months.

Adequan Injections

A series of Adequan injections can help with joint inflammation as well as lubrication. Typically injections are given twice a week for a total of eight injections.

Glucosamine

Oral joint supplements such as glucosamine contain cartilage building blocks to help the body repair cartilage damage. This is an excellent time to begin supplementation and there are numerous brands.

Weight Management

Overweight dogs have an increased risk for arthritis and cruciate rupture. A weight management program can reduce the potential for arthritis and can reduce the risk of rupture of the opposite cruciate ligament. If your dog is overweight, ask your vet about a weight management plan that might be started during the recovery period.

Professional Rehab/Physical Therapy

Nothing compares to professional rehab for a return to function. If you are lucky enough to have such a facility in your area, consider utilizing their services. A list of home exercises may be obtained and/or the dog can visit weekly or a few times weekly for exercise and treatment. Some facilities allow the dog to board and have daily treatment. Ask your vet about this option.

In Summary

  1. In a dog’s knee joint there are two cruciate ligaments that cross, forming an X shape. When either ligament is not intact, the knee is unstable and painful. Usually the ligament at the front ruptures.
  2. Two types of patients are usually seen. The most common is an adult dog that has had mild lameness that suddenly increases in severity. Sometimes the patients are overweight but not always. It is thought that the ligament has degenerated over time. In these cases, approximately 50% will have the same problem in the opposite knee. Less commonly we see patients who have been involved in some sort of accident that has caused an acute rupture.
  3. If left alone, it will appear to improve over a week or two but the knee will be notably swollen and arthritis will set in quickly. More importantly, lameness and pain will persist.
  4. Three different surgical repair techniques are commonly used today: extracapsular repair; tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO); and tibial tuberosity advancement (TTA).
  5. The extracapsular repair involves using an artificial ligament replacement. TTA and TPLO are much more invasive and require metal plates and screws. These are more expensive as they require specialized equipment and personnel and can have more complications. For dogs under 45 lbs, there is no clear advantage to the newer procedures. For larger dogs, the choice of which procedure is best is controversial.
  6. Extracapsular repair: The ruptured ligament is removed and sutures are put through a hole drilled in the tibia; the dog needs 8 to 12 weeks of exercise restriction (outside on a leash only, including the backyard); the suture will break 2 to 12 months after surgery and the dog’s own healed tissue will stabilize the knee.
  7. TPLO: The tibia is cut and rotated; most dogs are touching their toes to the ground by 10-21 days after surgery; 8-12 weeks of being outside on a leash only including the back yard; full function normally returns within 3 to 4 months.
  8. TTA: The tibia is cut and repositioned, and titanium, steel, and bone grafts stabilize the new angle of the joint. Most dogs are touching their toes to the ground by 10-21 days after surgery; 8-12 weeks of being outside on a leash only including the backyard; full function normally returns within 3 to 4 months.
  9. After surgery, patients need strict confinement (this cannot be overemphasized), medications, and weight loss if needed. Water treadmills and other physical therapies are helpful. Rehabilitation is important no matter which method is used.
  10. Results a year after surgery seem to be the same regardless of which procedure was used. Osteoarthritis will develop in all cases and will cause a degree of lameness.
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Rabies in Animals

Descriptions of rabies go back thousands of years as rabies has classically been one of the most feared infections of all time. It is because of this fear that dog ownership requires a license and documentation of rabies vaccination. There is still no reliably effective treatment for rabies infection once symptoms have started.

The virus does not survive outside of the infected host very long, so direct contact with fresh secretions is required for transmission.

In most cases, the disease is transmitted via a bite wound and it is mostly wildlife that gets infected. When wildlife starts coming into contact with the pet population, then pets become infected and when pets get infected, human infection is not far behind. Because this infection has nearly 100% mortality, preventing it in pets becomes crucial to preventing it in people. Of course, people can get infected by wildlife contact as well. Despite vaccination being readily available, every year the U.S. reports approximately 50 canine deaths, 250 feline deaths, and several human deaths from rabies. Worldwide, some 55,000 human deaths occur annually from rabies even now in the 21st century.

The most common wildlife species to spread rabies to domestic animals and humans in the Northern Hemisphere are skunks, bats, raccoons, foxes, and coyotes. Wildlife (especially bats) are able to gain access to indoor areas where they can come in close contact with both pets and people. Indoor pets are not without risk.

Many people do not realize how fast death occurs from rabies.

While it may take a long time for the virus to incubate, once even mild symptoms begin, death occurs within 10 days.

The injection treatment most people have heard of only works during the incubation period; once symptoms have started, survival chances are slim.

The virus in the infected animal’s saliva enters the victim’s tissues during the bite. The virus attaches to the local muscle cells for a couple of days before penetrating local nerves and beginning its slow ascent to the brain. Once within nervous tissue, the virus is not accessible to the immune system and may safely proceed toward the brain. The journey is slow and can take up to a year but the average time is three to eight weeks depending on the species. Virus ultimately reaches the brain and in two to three days more is evident in all body secretions, including saliva. At this point, the disease becomes transmissible and symptoms begin.

It can take up to a year from the time of the initial bite before symptoms begin to show. In dogs, typical incubation periods are 21-80 days. In cats, it’s 28-42 days. Once symptoms show, treatment is nearly impossible.

Prodromal Stage (The First 2-3 Days After Symptoms Have Started)

A change in personality is noted. Friendly animals become shy, etc. The larynx begins to spasm and a voice change may be noted (especially true in rabid cattle). Most infected animals will actively lick or scratch the site of the original bite.

Excitative Stage (Next 1-7 Days)

Classically, this would be the “mad dog” stage, though, in reality, most animals skip this phase altogether. The animal has no fear and suffers from hallucinations. If confined, the animal often attacks the bars of the cage.

Paralytic or Dumb Stage (Next 2-4 Days)

Weakness/paralysis sets in. The larynx is paralyzed, resulting in an inability to swallow, thus drooling and “foaming at the mouth” result. The animal dies when the intercostal muscles that control breathing are paralyzed. It is from animals in this stage where most human exposure occurs. There is no treatment for animals or humans once clinical signs appear.

Once the virus has been released to body secretions, it is again accessible to the immune system; however, the patient dies before an adequate immune response is mounted.

The classical symptoms of rabies described above may not be obviously recognizable, making diagnosis difficult if not impossible in a living animal. Long quarantines are often needed to determine if the infection has occurred.

When human exposure to the animal in question is involved, what happens depends on an assortment of criteria. If the animal in question is dead, its brain can be tested for rabies. There is no test for rabies in a living animal but since we know that death follows quickly after the virus becomes contagious, a living animal can be confined for 10 days. If the animal is still alive 10 days after biting a person, then the bite could not have transmitted rabies.

Prevention

For Our Pets

Happily, rabies prevention is accomplished with vaccination and limiting exposure to wildlife. The standard killed virus vaccines are available for both dogs and cats and, after the initial dose which is good for one year, subsequent doses are generally good for three years. Because tumors have developed in cats who received the killed virus vaccine, a recombinant product is now available that uses a portion of rabies viral DNA cloned into a harmless canarypox virus. This arrangement allows the pet to realize the benefits of live virus vaccination without any risk of exposure to the living rabies virus.

Rabies vaccination protocols are typically controlled by municipal regulations. Most communities legally require the vaccination of all dogs. The American Association of Feline Practitioners recommends rabies vaccination as a core vaccine for all pet cats.

For pets not current on rabies vaccination that have been exposed to biting wildlife, the Texas Post-Exposure Rabies Prophylaxis Protocol has been particularly helpful. In this situation, the pet should be vaccinated for rabies as soon as possible after the wildlife bite with booster vaccines given three weeks post-bite and eight weeks post-bite. The pet should be strictly isolated for 90 days. This protocol has been extremely successful in preventing rabies symptoms and contagion when normal rabies vaccination had lapsed. 

Treatment for Humans (Post Exposure Prophylaxis or PEP)

Treatment for Humans (Post Exposure Prophylaxis or PEP)

As mentioned, once symptoms have started, treatment can be attempted but truly there is little chance of survival. The only way to survive rabies is to exploit the long incubation period and basically get vaccinated quickly. Doing this involves a very big piece of information: knowing you were (or may have been) exposed. 

Every year a small number of people die of rabies in the U.S. Most of these people were bitten by a dog, bat, or some other animal and did nothing other than basic first aid. Recall that it takes many weeks for the rabies virus to reach the brain. This allows time for the vaccine to be given so that when the virus “comes out” of its neurologic hiding place and is ready to infect the brain, a substantial immunologic response is waiting. The virus is foiled and clinical rabies does not result.

If you are bitten by an animal and its rabies vaccination history is unknown, there are definite steps to take. A fresh bite wound should be washed out with water quickly as this may wash out viral particles. The time it takes for the virus to reach the brain depends on the amount of virus in addition to how close the wound is to the head. This simple step can be life-saving.

If the biting animal is alive, its vaccination status should be confirmed as soon as possible and it will need to be confined according to local law. The bite wound should be reported to the health department as soon as possible. Only rodent and rabbit bites are not reportable.

If the animal is dead then its brain can be tested for rabies. The head of the biting animal is submitted to the health department for fluorescent antibody testing for the rabies virus. This process takes a matter of hours so that any bite victims can know right away if they will require rabies treatment.

If the animal is not available or its vaccination status is in question, further treatment may be needed. Hyperimmune (antibody-rich) serum is flushed into the wound in hope of inactivating the virus before it may penetrate to the nerves. The patient receives a vaccination on a regular schedule for about a month, as described above.

Veterinarians have a rabies exposure risk of more than 300 times that of the general population. 

Anyone pursuing a career with animals should consider vaccination against rabies.

The Law Regarding Animal Bites (Against Humans)

In the U.S., states and counties have different regulations regarding rabies vaccines for companion animals and bites to humans. Regulations for your area in the U.S. can be found through your county’s health department. In almost all states in the U.S., the biting animal must be confined for observation for 10 days at the owner’s expense regardless of vaccination status.

The purpose of the quarantine period is to determine if the rabies virus could have been in the animal’s saliva at the time of the bite. An animal infected with rabies and shedding virus will certainly be dead within ten days.

If the biting animal is known to have been exposed to wildlife, the situation is different. A vaccinated animal must be re-vaccinated within the time period required by local regulations and confined for observation for the specified duration. Unvaccinated animals may be confined for a specified time period according to local/regional law, or be euthanized and tested for rabies. In the U.S., all bites to humans that break the skin are reportable to local health departments. Rabies vaccination requirements vary from state to state, and country to country.  Contact your veterinarian if you think your pet has come into contact with or been bitten by a wild animal. Regardless of the vaccination status of your pet, wild animal bites may lead to painful wounds and infection.

Again, laws regarding biting dogs and rabies vaccination are highly regional. Check with your local animal regulation department, your veterinarian, or visit rabiesaware.org to find out what you need to know in the U.S..

Quarantines when Traveling

Great Britain, Hawaii, Japan, New Zealand, and several other island areas have successfully eradicated rabies from their territory. These places are EXTREMELY cautious about allowing in potential carriers of rabies. Because of the long incubation period of rabies, a very long quarantine is needed; however, this must be balanced by the expense associated with quarantine and owners’ reluctance to be separated from their pets. Most places that have eradicated rabies have protocols for avoiding or minimizing quarantine. Typically, a microchip is implanted in the pet for identification purposes, a rabies antibody titer (a measurement of vaccine-induced protection) must be performed at an approved laboratory, and rabies vaccine documentation is necessary.

For listings of what each state requires for entry, go to the USDA. 

For travel to another country check with that country’s consulate, but guidelines are also available at USDA.

Other Links

The CDC’s rabies home page has, in addition to basic information, a children’s education area that is particularly helpful for families who go camping.

The annual World Rabies Day calls attention to this problem to raise awareness and provides information about rabies in both humans and animals.

In Summary:

You can’t treat rabies once symptoms set in; all you can do is prevent it.

Rabies is a virus transmitted through saliva or brain tissue. Without rapid preventive treatment, it is almost always fatal. That’s why your pets are required to have rabies vaccines in many areas of the world.

The most common wildlife species to spread rabies to animals and people in the Northern Hemisphere are bats, skunks, raccoons, foxes, and coyotes. 

It is generally caused by a bite wound, and mostly wildlife gets infected.

Rabies affects a mammal’s central nervous system. It can take up to a year before symptoms begin to show, but the average time is 3-8 weeks depending on the species. In dogs, the typical incubation period is 21-80 days. In cats, it’s 28-42 days. Once symptoms begin, treatment is nearly impossible.

If you are bitten, you need a preventive injection immediately as it only works during the incubation period. Once even mild symptoms begin, death occurs within 10 days.

After symptoms have started:

  •  First 2-3 days: a personality change is seen, and the larynx spasms, resulting in a voice change.
  •  Next 1-7 days: this is the “mad dog” stage in which an animal has no fear and suffers from hallucinations, but many skip this stage.
  •  Next 2-4 days: weakness and paralysis set in. The larynx becomes paralyzed so the animal cannot swallow, causing drooling and foaming at the mouth.
  •  The animal dies when the muscles that control breathing finally become completely paralyzed. Most people get bitten in this stage.

Symptoms may not be obviously recognizable, making diagnosis difficult if not impossible. There is no diagnostic test for rabies in a living animal.

What happens after people are exposed depends on the situation. If the animal is dead, its head is sent to a laboratory so the brain tissue can be tested. In some circumstances/locations, a living animal can be quarantined for 10 days at the owner’s expense; if the animal is still alive, then the bite could not have transmitted rabies.

The vaccine protocols are typically controlled by municipal regulations. Most communities legally require all dogs to be vaccinated and recommend it for cats. Vaccination requirements vary from state to state, and country to country. 

Exposed pets not current on rabies vaccination should be given booster vaccines at 3 and 8 weeks post-bite. The pet should be strictly isolated for 90 days.

Exposed humans should wash the bite with water as it may wash out some virus particles; the time it takes for the virus to reach the brain depends on the amount of virus in addition to how close the wound is to the head.  This step could save a life.

Animal bites need to be reported to local health departments.

Veterinarians have a rabies exposure risk of more than 300 times that of the general population. Anyone in an animal-oriented job should consider preventive vaccination.

4128812

Ringworm in Dogs and Cats

What Kind of Infection is it?

Many people are surprised to find that ringworm is not caused by a worm at all but by a fungus. The fungi involved are called dermatophytes, and the more scientifically correct name for ringworm is dermatophytosis. The dermatophyte fungi feed upon the dead cells of skin and hair, causing in people a classic round, red lesion with a ring of scale around the edges and normal recovering skin in the center. Because the ring of irritated, itchy skin looked like a worm, the infection was erroneously named. 

The characteristic ring appearance is primarily a human phenomenon. In animals, ringworm frequently looks like a dry, grey, scaly patch but can also mimic any other skin lesion and have any appearance. 

Where Would My Pet Pick Up This Infection?

The spores of dermatophyte fungi are extremely hardy in the environment; they can live for years. All it takes is skin contact with a spore to cause infection; however, the skin must be abraded, as the fungus cannot infect healthy, intact skin. This means that freshly shaved, scraped, or scratched skin is especially vulnerable.

Infection can come from direct contact with an infected symptomatic animal, direct contact with an asymptomatic carrier, or contact with spores in the environment. Infected symptomatic animals have skin lesions rife with fungal spores. Carriers may be infected animals who do not have obvious lesions (a common scenario towards the end of treatment), or they may be animals who are not actually infected per se but simply have spores on their hairs, just as a couch might have spores on its surface. Infection is transmitted when spores bind to abraded skin. Skin lesions typically appear one to three weeks after exposure.

There are several species of dermatophyte fungi. Different species come from different kinds of animals or even from the soil, thus, determining the ringworm species can help determine the source of the fungal infection. Predisposing factors towards infection include age (puppies and kittens are at higher risk than adult animals), lifestyle (free-roaming or hunting animals being predisposed), and local climate (pets living in warmer, more humid climates are predisposed). Immune suppression from the FIV or Feline Leukemia Virus turns out not to be a predisposing factor as one might expect, especially since immune suppression is a human risk. Still, there are two breed predispositions of note: Persian cats and Yorkshire terrier dogs. Infection rates are higher in these breeds, as are treatment failures.

Can I get This Infection?

Yes, ringworm is contagious to people; however, some people are at greater risk than others. The fungus takes advantage of skin belonging to those with reduced immune capacity. This puts young animals and children, pregnant women, elderly people and pets, those who are HIV-positive, people on chemotherapy or taking medication after transfusion or organ transplant, and highly stressed people and animals at high risk. In general, if you do not already have ringworm at the time your pet is diagnosed, you probably will not get it. Keep in mind that skin must be irritated to become infected.

How Does the Doctor Know This is Really Ringworm?

In some cases, we know for sure that the pet has dermatophyte fungi, while in other cases, we are only highly suspicious. Ringworm lesions on animal skin are rarely the classic ring-shaped as in people (in fact, in animals, lesions are often not even itchy) thus, some testing is usually necessary, as we will describe.

Wood’s Light (Fluorescence)
A Wood’s light is a lamp designed to emit light in a specific range of wavelengths. It looks like a black light but is actually entirely different. Ringworm fungi of the genus Microsporum (the most common genus in small animal ringworm cases) demonstrate a chemical reaction when they bind to hair shafts. This chemical reaction fluoresces apple green under the Wood’s light. Fungal spores will not fluoresce without infection, so an uninfected carrier will not fluoresce, nor will debris that is not attached to the hair.

There is controversy regarding what percentage of Microsporum infections will fluoresce. A commonly published statistic is that approximately 50 percent will fluoresce, but other information suggests that 100 percent of Microsporum infections will fluoresce at least at some point in their course. Fluorescence first becomes detectable five to 18 days post-infection. In many cases, using Wood’s light uncovers numerous additional skin lesions that were not visible to the naked eye.

Most veterinary hospitals are equipped with Wood’s lights and use them to screen pets for ringworm lesions. Unfortunately, fluorescence may be difficult to find, and complicating matters, many topical products and non-infectious debris will also fluoresce. Further testing is often needed.

Microscopic Examination

Your veterinarian may wish to examine some hairs for microscopic spores. This involves plucking hairs and inspecting them under a microscope. If spores can be seen on damaged hairs, then the diagnosis of ringworm is confirmed; however, as spores are difficult to see, especially in darker hair, many veterinarians skip this step.

Fungal Culture

Some hairs and skin scales are placed on a culture medium in an attempt to grow one of the ringworm fungi. The advantage of this test is that it not only can confirm ringworm but can tell exactly which species of fungus is there. Knowing the identity of the fungus

may help determine the source of infection. The disadvantage, however, is that fungi require at least 10 days to grow out. Unfortunately, false negative cultures are not unusual.

Fungal culture does not depend on a visible skin lesion. A pet with no apparent lesions can be combed over its whole body and the fur and skin that are removed can be cultured. Carrier animals are usually cats living with several other cats.

A specific growth-medium, called dermatophyte test medium, is commonly employed to distinguish ringworm fungi from other fungi. Ringworm fungi classically produce a white fluffy colony and will turn the orange growth medium red within two to 14 days. When the colony is mature, the material can be harvested from it and examined under the microscope for ringworm spores.

PCR Testing

The newest diagnostic method involves testing hairs for dermatophyte fungus DNA. The benefit is that it is much faster than the culture but is still able to confirm the infection as well as determine the species of ringworm fungus involved. This makes PCR testing an excellent way to make the diagnosis of ringworm initially but can pose a problem in determining the end of treatment. The downside of PCR testing is that it tests for fungal DNA, not for live viable fungi. When the pet is first diagnosed, if there is fungal DNA  on a skin lesion, we can assume the fungus is causing infection. After treatment, however, the fungus is killed or damaged to the point of being harmless, but its DNA will still be there, creating a positive PCR test. For this reason, PCR is best used for detecting fungus in an untreated patient, but culture is probably best at determining when treatment can be discontinued.

Biopsy

Sometimes the lesions on the skin are so uncharacteristic that a skin biopsy is necessary to obtain a diagnosis. Fungal spores are quite clear in these samples, and the diagnosis may be ruled in or out. Depending on the outcome of preliminary tests, your veterinarian may begin ringworm treatment right away or postpone it until after more definitive results are available.

Treatment

Commitment is the key to success, especially if you have more than one pet. Infected animals are constantly shedding spores into the environment (your house) thus disinfection is just as important as treatment of the affected pet. The infected pet will require isolation while the environment is disinfected and should not be allowed back into the clean area until a culture is negative. Ideally, all pets should be tested and isolated until they are deemed clear of infection, at which point they can be allowed back into the clean area.

Infected pets generally require oral medication, which may be supplemented with topical treatment (dipping, lotion, or both). Localized lesions might get away with topical treatment only.

Oral Medication for Infected Pets

Oral medication provides the foundation for treating ringworm as it is an oral medication that renders the fungus unable to reproduce and spread. With the spread of infection controlled, only the pre-existing fungus remains and generally can be removed with topical therapy as described later on.

Currently, two medications are primarily recommended to treat ringworm:  Itraconazole and terbinafine.  (Griseofulvin is also available and has been the traditional anti-ringworm oral medication for decades. While griseofulvin is still as effective as the other medications, the newer products appear to be safer, and griseofulvin is rapidly becoming only a historical note.)

Treatment with oral medication typically should not be discontinued until the pet’s cultures are negative. Stopping when the pet simply looks well visually frequently invites the recurrence of the disease.

Itraconazole

This medication is highly effective for ringworm. Recently, it has become available in an oral suspension (liquid) approved for cats, which is most likely going to be the form your veterinarian prescribes. Itraconazole is also available as a human product, in either capsules or liquid. The human product is not practical for pet use as the capsules are too strong and the liquid too weak. If the human product is to be used, it is important to obtain it through a compounding pharmacy into appropriately sized capsules using the brand name Sporonox®, rather than from generic. The reason for this is bioavailability (how much of the consumed drug actually makes it into the body after swallowing it). Generics and bulk products simply have poor bioavailability and are not recommended.

Compounded itraconazole is expensive and compounded itraconazole from a brand name product is even more expensive, but investing in a medicine that is not bioavailable is even worse so it is important to get either brand name Itrafungol® made for cats or brand name Sporonox® made for humans (and reformatted into a pet-sized dose). On average, cats treated with itraconazole and nothing else were able to achieve a cure two weeks sooner than cats treated with griseofulvin. 

After deciding which form of medication to use, there are several dosing regimens that have been used: daily, one week on/one week off, two weeks on/two weeks off, and the list goes on. The bottom line is that itraconazole is effective against ringworm in any of the protocols. As with any drug, side effects are possible, including nausea. 

Terbinafine
This is a newer antifungal on the scene and seems to be effective against ringworm fungi. While originally expensive, the generic form is currently relatively inexpensive. Terbinafine is best given with food and cannot be used during pregnancy or nursing.

Griseofulvin
This medication must be given with a fatty meal in order for an effective dose to be absorbed by the pet. Persian cats and young kittens are felt to be sensitive to its side effects, which usually are limited to nausea but can include liver disease and serious white blood cell changes. Cats infected with the feline immunodeficiency virus commonly develop life-threatening blood cell changes and should never be exposed to this medication. Despite the side effects, which can be severe for some individuals, griseofulvin is still the traditional medication for the treatment of ringworm and is usually somewhat less expensive than itraconazole. Treatment typically takes one to two months.

Lufenuron – Not Effective against Ringworm


Lufenuron is an oral product used in flea control. It works by inhibiting the insect’s ability to make chitin, an important component of its exoskeleton. It turns out that dermatophyte fungi also have chitin in their cell walls and some initial research suggested that lufenuron was a helpful adjunct to other more conventional treatments. This has not panned out in the long term and its use has been largely abandoned. Lufenuron is the flea-sterilizing ingredient in both Program and Sentinel.

Topical Treatment for Infected Pets

While the oral products suppress the infection on the host, they do not kill the spores. Topical treatment acts by directly killing fungal spores.  This is not only valuable in preventing environmental contamination by the infected animal but also is important in preventing infection in animals who come into contact with the infected animals. Topically treated hairs will not be infectious when they drop into the environment. In situations where it is difficult to confine the infected animals away from the non-infected ones, topical therapy becomes especially important. So what sort of options are available?

Lime Sulfur Dip

Dips are recommended twice a week and can be performed either at the hospital or at home. If you attempt this kind of dipping at home, you should expect:

  1. Lime sulfur will stain clothing and jewelry
  2. Lime sulfur will cause temporary yellowing of white fur
  3. Lime sulfur smells strongly of rotten eggs.

The dip is mixed according to the label instructions and is not rinsed off at the end of the bath. The pet should be towel dried. Shampooing is not necessary.

Miconazole-Chlorhexidine Rinse or Shampoo

Miconazole (an antifungal) and chlorhexidine (a disinfectant) synergize with each other when combatting ringworm. They are available as a combination rinse as well as shampoo.  The rinse, which is left to dry on the pet, is effective in killing ringworm spores though in the field lime sulfur seemed associated with a faster cure (median 48 days vs. 30 days with lime sulfur).  Allow a 10-minute contact time for a miconazole-chlorhexidine shampoo. Twice weekly application of either rinse or shampoo is the currently recommended frequency of use.

There are also products where chlorhexidine and miconazole are used as single agents. Chlorhexidine alone is not effective and miconazole alone is effective but is vastly more effective when synergized with chlorhexidine. It is best not to use these products separately.

Topical Lotions and Ointments

There are numerous antifungal products available to treat isolated lesions. Miconazole, clotrimazole, and other anti-fungal topicals can be applied in this way but these treatments should be considered adjuncts to other therapies.

Environmental Treatment

The problem with decontaminating the environment is that few products are effective. Bleach diluted 1:10 will kill 80 percent of fungal spores with one application and any surface that can be bleached, should be bleached. It should be noted, however, that bleach cannot disinfect anything if there is any dirt or grime. General cleaning should always precede disinfection. Vigorous vacuuming and steam cleaning of carpets will help remove spores and, of course, vacuum bags should be discarded. Wood floors can be decontaminated with the daily use of an electrostatic cloth, such as Swiffer, and twice weekly wood soap cleaning. Laundry can be decontaminated by running it through a washing machine twice; bleach is optional. The rest of the house can be disinfected during this confinement period. Be sure to clean areas with a detergent or soap to remove organic debris as disinfection will not work if the surface is not clean first. Cultures of the pet are done monthly during the course of treatment.

To reduce environmental contamination, infected cats should be confined to one room until they have cultured negative.

The following specific recommendations for environmental disinfection come from the Dermatology Department at the University of Wisconsin School of Veterinary Medicine. This cleaning protocol should be used in the room where the affected individuals are being housed:

  • The hairs and skin particles from the infected individual literally form the dust and dirt around the house and are the basis for reinfection. The single most important aspect of environmental disinfection is vacuuming. Target areas should receive good suction for at least 10 minutes and hard surfaces should be cleaned with a Swiffer or similar product. (Many people like to use an inexpensive vacuum that can simply be thrown out when the ringworm episode is over.)
  • Affected animals should be confined to one room which should be cleaned twice a week.
  • Areas that have been contaminated should be cleaned with soap and water and rinsed with water. This process is performed at least three times weekly. For carpeting, a steam cleaner can be used. The steam is not hot enough to kill ringworm spores but should help clean the dirt and remove the contaminated particles.
  • After the triple cleaning with soap and water, a 1:10 solution of bleach should be used on surfaces that are bleachable. The surface should stay wet for a total of 10 minutes to kill the ringworm spores. Bleach will not kill spores in the presence of dirt so it is important that the surface be properly cleaned before it is bleached.
  • Wood floors can be decontaminated by daily use of disposable cleaning cloths such as a dry electrostatic cloth. The floors are then cleaned twice weekly with wood soap.

To determine if an area has been properly decontaminated, use the following process: Use a piece of electrostatic cloth on the area to be tested, and dust for 5 minutes or until the cloth is dirty. 

Once a cat cultures negative and is removed from the contaminated room, decontamination should be achieved in one to three cleanings.

The ringworm fungus can remain infective in the environment for up to 18 months, maybe longer.

Identifying Carriers

When there is a pet with ringworm in the home, all other pets should be tested. A carrier of ringworm is one that is infected but not showing lesions. Usually, this will be the pet that has been treated for a while and appears visually to be cured but, in fact, is still infected or one that is simply carrying the fungus on its fur in the same way an inanimate object might have fungal spores on its surface. Both types of carriers must be identified as they are both capable of spreading the infection.

The MacKenzie Toothbrush Test is the best approach for the pet with no obvious lesions. Here the pet is combed with a clean toothbrush, and the hair that comes off is cultured for ringworm. This allows sampling of the whole cat when no lesions are visible either with the naked eye or with the Wood’s lamp.

Will Ringworm Go Away by Itself?

There have been several studies that showed this fungal infection should eventually resolve on its own. Typically, this takes 4 months, a long time in a home environment, for contamination to be occurring continuously. Actively treating the infection is considered a better approach than simply waiting for it to go away while environmental contamination progresses.

What to Change if the Outbreak Seems to Go on Forever (as in more than 100 Days)

After a couple of months of medication and dipping, the outbreak is generally over.

If the outbreak is still going strong, then it is time to look for corners that may have been cut and holes in the program that need patching:

  1. If you are using visual lesions as the endpoint for treatment, it is important to change to fungal culture as the standard.
  2. Dipping is labor intensive, and people tend not to do it twice a week as is optimal. Twice a week dipping should be instituted if there is trouble eradicating the infection.
  3. The environment must be properly decontaminated, and this includes not just identification but confinement of affected pets. If infected pets are not confined, they will contaminate the environment and keep getting re-infected.
  4. Consider whether the pet has a defective immune system. If the pet has a second disease, it must be controlled if the pet is to recover.
  5. Itraconazole compounded from bulk products does not have the same bioavailability as itraconazole compounded from prescription products. This means, in short, that it does not work as well. Changing to compounded prescription products or to terbinafine may make a big difference.
  6. Lastly, it is important to consider that the diagnosis may be wrong if only visualization were used to make the diagnosis. Proper testing as outlined above is crucial to the diagnosis of dermatophytosis. A biopsy may be needed.

If you become infected, contact your doctor to receive treatment. Veterinarians are not able to make recommendations for human disease or infection, even if the infection came from a pet.

4128376

Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever in Dogs

Rocky Mountain spotted fever (RMSF) is caused by Rickettsia rickettsii. This intracellular parasite is transmitted to dogs through the bite of an infected tick. The ticks that can transmit RMSF are the Rocky Mountain wood tick, the American dog tick, and the brown dog tick.

In the United States, RMSF is most common in the southern Atlantic states, western central states, and areas of the mid-Atlantic and southern New England coastal states. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), only about 1 to 3 percent of the tick population carries R. rickettsii, even in those geographic areas.

Prior research indicated that the infected tick must be attached for at least 2 hours in order to transmit disease. Research in Brazil demonstrated that unfed ticks had to be attached for more than 10 hours for transmission to occur, whereas fed ticks could transmit disease within as little as 10 minutes after attachment. These results may indicate that transmission across all tick species could occur earlier than once thought, depending on when the tick has last eaten. Transmission of the Rickettsia can then occur due to the bite or from exposure to the parasite while handling the tick. 

Clinical Signs

Clinical signs will show up 2 to 14 days after the bite occurred. The parasite creates an inflammation of the body’s small blood vessels, which results in damage to all the organs of the body.

Common signs include fever, lethargy, inappetence, pain, eye/nose discharge, nosebleed, cough, enlarged lymph nodes, lameness, skin necrosis/sloughing, hemorrhage, and peripheral swelling. Petechial hemorrhages (tiny hemorrhages in the skin) will occur in about 20% of affected dogs. Up to one third of the infected dogs will have central nervous system signs (lack of voluntary coordination of muscle movements, weakness, balance problems, cranial nerve abnormalities, seizures, stupor, spinal pain, etc.). Any organ in the body may be affected and the clinical signs may be mild or severe enough to result in death.

Diagnosis

Diagnostic tests for RMSF include blood tests looking for severely low platelet count, plus coagulation profiles, blood chemical analysis, and serology. (Paired titers, from blood samples taken 14 to 21 days apart, are often needed, but a single high titer in dogs that have clinical signs is consistent with an active infection.)  Response to antibiotic therapy is suggestive, but not diagnostic.

Treatment/Management

Specific treatment relies on the use of appropriate antibiotics. Response to the antibiotics usually is seen within 24 to 48 hours, although advanced cases may not respond at all to treatment. The most common antibiotics used are tetracycline, doxycycline, and minocycline. Chloramphenicol is usually reserved for pregnant bitches or young puppies. Fluoroquinolones, such as enrofloxacin, have shown efficacy, but their use is generally restricted to older animals. Side effects to any of the antibiotics may be seen. Your veterinarian will choose the antibiotic that best suits your pet’s age, pregnancy status, etc.

Blood transfusions to treat anemia and other supportive therapies may be needed.

Prognosis

Prognosis is excellent in dogs that are diagnosed and treated early and who have no complications. Lifelong immunity often occurs after the infection is cleared.

More severely affected patients are at higher risk for complications, such as kidney disease, neurological disease, vasculitis, and coagulopathies. Prognosis is guarded for patients that have complications.

Prevention

Limit your dog’s exposure to ticks and tick-infested areas.

Inspect your dog closely for ticks. The sooner you can remove a tick after it attaches, the better the chance that the organism will not have had time to become infective. Wear gloves when removing ticks, as the infective organism can get into your body through abrasions, cuts, etc. You can also use a tick remover tool. 

4128496

Ringworm Environmental Decontamination: How to Clean Your Home When Your Pet Has Ringworm

Ringworm Environmental Decontamination:

How to Clean Your Home When Your Pet Has Ringworm

Dermatophytosis, commonly called ringworm, is a fungal infection of the fur and skin of dogs and cats. When your pet has ringworm, it is really important to clean and disinfect your home to prevent the spread of ringworm to other pets and to people.

How to Clean and Disinfect the Home

Thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting the home when a pet has ringworm is called environmental decontamination and is a two-step process.

STEP 1: Remove pet hair

Wipe, sweep, and/or vacuum the surface then thoroughly wash the surface until visibly clean of pet hair. Remove any excess water before Step 2.

STEP 2: Disinfect the surface.

Apply disinfectant and let sit for 5 min.

Step 1 is the most important step because many surfaces can be rid of ringworm by removing pet hair. Additionally, many disinfectants do not work in the presence of debris.

Below is a guide to cleaning and disinfecting various materials. Information is summarized from publications by veterinary dermatologist Dr. Karen Moriello of the University of Wisconsin School of Veterinary Medicine.

MaterialCleaning StepDisinfection Step
Carpeting (small area rugs)Vacuum dailyLaunder. Do not overload the washing machine. Wash separately from other laundry.
Carpeting (wall to wall)Vacuum dailyProfessional steam cleaning
or
Chemical disinfection (spray with a disinfectant then rinse with a carpet shampooer after 10 minutes of contact time)
Upholstered furnitureVacuum daily
or
Lint rollers or duct tape daily
Professional steam cleaning
or
Chemical disinfection (spray with a disinfectant then rinse with a carpet shampooer after 10 minutes of contact time)
Hardwood floorsVacuum daily
or
Use disposable electrostatic wipes daily (Swiffer® pad)
Wash with a cleaning product safe for hardwood flooring (e.g., Murphy’s Oil Soap®)
Hospital towelsLaunder daily and use laundry detergent.
Wash twice on a long cycle (for ≥14 minutes). Use laundry detergent. Wash separately from other fabrics. Do not overload the washing machine.
Cat trees, pet clothing, fabric collars, etc.Discard all non-washable items. Wait until after your pet’s infection has been treated to buy new items. 
Pet food bowlsSoak dishes in hot, soapy water, scrub until clean, and rinse. Wear dishwashing gloves for protection against infection.

Laundry Tips for When Your Pet Has Ringworm

  • Wash towels, bedding, and clothing that have been in contact with your infected pet separately from other household laundry. Wear gloves when handling dirty laundry.
  • For any laundry, thoroughly washing is more important than the temperature setting for the washer or dryer. Use the longest wash cycle possible and do not overload the washing machine. This will help the washing machine remove infected pet hairs from the fabric.

Disinfection Tips for Ringworm

  • Newer research shows that if the surface is first thoroughly cleaned, many disinfectants can be used to clean household surfaces. Examples include ready-to-use bathroom cleaners that are effective against Trichophyton spp. For any product, follow the instructions on the label and pay close attention to contact time.
  • Household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is an inexpensive option. Although dilutions as high as 1:10 have previously been reported, a lower dilution of 1:100 is also effective and less harsh on surfaces. Prepare fresh solutions each week and store in a dark container. Pay attention to the warnings on the bleach container and do not mix bleach with other cleaners. Bleach will damage some floor finishes, wood, and discolor fabrics.
  • Accelerated hydrogen peroxide is a proprietary compound of concentrated hydrogen peroxide combined with other cleaners. It is different from the bottles of dilute hydrogen peroxide available at drugstores and may be available from your pet’s veterinarian.
  • In households with less than 2 pets infected with ringworm, twice weekly cleaning and disinfection should be sufficient. However, any visible pet hair should be removed daily.

Tips for Making Cleaning and Disinfection Easier When Your Pet has Ringworm

  • Try to keep your pet in an easily cleanable room that does not have carpeting or clutter. Bathrooms and other rooms with hard surface flooring work great.
  • Change your pet’s bedding daily and use easy-to-launder fabrics.
  • After vacuuming, dispose of the vacuum bag at least weekly and wear gloves when handling the vacuum bag.
  • Because cleaning and disinfection need to continue until your pet’s ringworm infection has been cured, follow the treatment recommendations from your pet’s veterinarian. This will help your pet recover from the infection as soon as possible.
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Rectal Prolapse in Dogs and Cats

Rectal prolapse occurs when the rectum, which is the last part of the intestines, gets turned inside out (everted), and sticks out of the anus. It looks like a red or pink tubular structure sticking out of the area from which your pet normally poops. It can also be crusty, ooze, or be a dark color if it has been around for a while. Rectal prolapse is not the same thing as hemorrhoids, which are swollen veins from the rectum that bulge out of the anus.

Why a Prolapse Happens 

Prolapse can occur after a pet has been straining to poop for a while. Some of the most common reasons this can happen is if the pet has intestinal worms, is dehydrated, constipated, has diarrhea or loose stool, or has an intestinal blockage such as a tumor or has eaten an object that he is having trouble passing. Over time, straining leads to weakening of the structures that keep the rectum in place, causing the rectum to stick out through the anus. 

Other Symptoms 

If your pet has a rectal prolapse, you may also have noticed that he has been spending a lot of time trying to poop recently. An example of straining is standing in the classic, “hunched” posture used for emptying the bowels for longer than usual. It can also mean pooping more times than usual, even if he is able to finish quickly. You may also have seen an unusual change in the poop, such as being small and dry, looser than usual, or covered in intestinal worms. If you haven’t noticed any change in regular habits, either because keeping an eye on your pet’s bathroom habits is gross or because you have a sneaky pet that hides in order to go, it isn’t a big deal. Your veterinarian will know what to do. 

Diagnosing a Rectal Prolapse 

To officially diagnose a rectal prolapse, your veterinarian will give a pretty thorough physical examination, including a rectal exam in which they feel the prolapsed tissue. A fecal sample will likely be taken to check for worms and other intestinal issues. If a blockage is suspected, x-rays and/or an abdominal ultrasound may be necessary. 

Treatment 

To treat the prolapse, the vet will have to carefully clean the area before replacing it back into its original position. If it is swollen, additional medications or solutions may need to be applied to shrink the prolapse. Sometimes sedation or anesthesia is needed because a prolapse can be painful, especially if it becomes infected. 

If the prolapse can be replaced, the vet may tie a “purse-string” suture around the anus to keep the opening small and prevent the rectum from prolapsing again. This fix is temporary until your pet heals. The suture will need to be removed later (your vet will tell you when), but it is important that you don’t let your pet chew the area or the suture may break. Antibiotics and pain medications may be sent home, as well as an e-collar, to ensure the rectal tissue heals properly. 

Occasionally, a rectal prolapse cannot be replaced, or the tissue is too damaged. In these cases, surgery will be necessary to either remove the damage tissue (called a resection and anastomosis) or tack the rectum into the body wall from inside the abdomen (called a colopexy). 

In addition to treating the prolapse, your veterinarian will also want to treat the cause of the prolapse (e.g., treat for intestinal worms). Stool softeners may also be prescribed for a short period to keep your pet from straining. Most pets improve and do not continue to have issues once the rectal prolapse heals. If you have any questions or concerns about your pet’s diagnosis and treatment, give your vet a call so they can guide you further.

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Recessed Vulva in Dogs

A recessed (or juvenile) vulva means a dog has excess skin folds that hang over her vulva, enough to potentially cause problems of one kind or another. The skin folds are a structural problem thought to possibly be a genetic issue, but the genetic connection has not been determined. The condition tends to be seen mostly in medium to large-sized breeds, most often in obese dogs.

Some dogs will never have one single problem related to having a recessed vulva, and it will be found during a physical exam or during a procedure for something unrelated. However, some dogs will have life-long problems because the vulvar area collects some moisture when the dog urinates. Combined with body heat in that area, the moisture creates a perfect breeding ground for bacteria and predisposes the dog to urinary tract infections or vaginitis. The vagina is normally not sterile. The bacteria can infect the skin folds, which is called perivulvar dermatitis, move into the vagina causing vaginitis, or move up into the urinary tract, which leads to a bladder infection.

Your veterinarian can diagnose a recessed, or hooded, vulva simply by looking at the genital area, and the vulva is not seen because it’s covered with skin folds.

Clinical signs tend to depend on how much inflammation and infection the dog has. Your dog may scoot on her behind, trying to relieve the itching in her vulva (it may look like a dog scooting because of inflamed anal glands), or licking her vulva excessively.

You may notice a bad odor from her vulva; that odor is usually from infected tissues. Some dogs might leak urine while sleeping or resting due to a condition called USMI, which is a common problem in spayed dogs and could also potentially contribute to a bladder infection (bacterial cystitis).

If she has a bladder infection, you may see blood in her urine, accidents in the house even if she is perfectly housetrained, see her straining to urinate, or notice a foul odor from her urine. It’s possible that her signs of a bladder infection are the only ones you will see if she has a recessed vulva.

Overall, bacterial cystitis is a common medical problem for female spayed dogs (in general) in that many of them may have a bout of bacterial cystitis during their lifetime. Repeated or recurrent bouts of bacterial cystitis are more problematic and it’s important to look for underlying drivers. A recessed vulva could be one of these predisposing causes.

Treatment

If the skin folds of the recessed vulva are affecting both your and your dog’s quality of life, your veterinarian can provide medical management or a surgical fix. Medicated shampoos or wipes may be enough to prevent skin infections. In overweight dogs, weight loss will likely help because there would be less tissue to fold over the vulva. If your dog has not gone through a heat cycle, the recessed vulva might improve after the first heat cycle.

The surgical procedure is called a vulvoplasty. Prior to surgical intervention, it’s important to investigate and look for co-morbid causes for recurrent bacterial cystitis. The evaluation typically includes a physical examination, complete urinalysis, urine culture, possibly a complete blood count, and a chemistry panel. Imaging with radiographs (X-rays) and a complete abdominal ultrasound are also likely to be done. Direct visualization of the lower urinary tract and vagina can be performed with cystoscopy, and this is often done prior to vulvoplasty surgery in order to look for problems such as malformations and other abnormalities.

During vulvoplasty, the surgeon removes a piece of tissue from around the vulva so that the skin has a more normal structure. The new ventilation helps the skin dry out and not be moist enough all the time for bacteria to grow. Additionally, it keeps those skin folds from rubbing up against each other and causing irritation.

You may be provided with analgesics for pain and possibly antibiotics to prevent an infection. Some dogs will need sutures; most types will need to be removed in about 10-14 days at the follow-up appointment.

Before the vulvoplasty occurs, any skin infection near the vulva must be cleared up as it prevents the incision from healing normally, usually by taking antibiotics. A skin culture can determine the most appropriate antibiotic.

Appropriate post-operative care is critical: for two weeks she must be kept quiet with restricted activity, as otherwise during running, jumping, and playing the incision can rip open. That can cause some serious complications. She should be taken outside only on a leash. An e-collar needs to stay on so she will not lick the incision, which also can cause infections.

Rarely, in dogs with significant skin folds, it is possible that not enough skin is removed during the procedure. In this case, the symptoms will likely return. A second surgery can correct it.

Generally, however, the prognosis after a vulvoplasty is excellent and most owners are quite pleased.

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Oral Joint Health Supplements #2

On the last program of Texas Vet News I talked about the large number of oral joint health supplements that are on the market for horses.  Even though these products are widely used, many of them are of questionable quality because there are no regulations governing them.  Because of this problem, Dr. Stacey Oke has developed a system for horse owners to help them choose a product that may be of better quality than some others. 

First of all, choose a product from a company that has been in the animal health pharmaceutical business for years instead of months.  It is likely that companies with a good reputation are not going to stake their reputation on manufacturing a poor quality product for short-term sales.  Also, look for products that are backed by clinical research published in peer-reviewed veterinary journals.  Many companies report they have clinical trials but don’t have information available; even if they do have information, clinical trials that are not published in peer-reviewed journals are worthless. 

It is also important to look at the label and make sure all of the ingredients in the product are listed, including active, inactive, and filler ingredients.  Manufacturers that do not list all ingredients of their products likely use fillers and may not contain the labelled ingredients.  Products that make claims that seem too good to be true are probably not as good as they claim. 

Dosing instructions should be accurate and clear, and the amount of ingredient per scoop should be printed clearly on the label.  Also, look for products with clear contact information and check to see if the company you choose has veterinarians on staff to answer your questions.