Hip dysplasia is a common condition of large breed dogs. Many dog owners have heard of it, but anyone owning a large breed dog or considering a large breed dog should become familiar with this condition. The larger the dog, the more likely the development of this problem becomes, particularly as the dog ages and loss of mobility/arthritis pain become important life quality issues. 

What is Hip Dysplasia?

The bones (femoral head and acetabulum) are coated with smooth cartilage so that motion is nearly frictionless and the bones glide smoothly across each other’s surface.

See more detail on the structures of the normal joint.

When a dog has hip dysplasia, the ball and socket do not fit smoothly. The socket is flattened and the ball is not held tightly in place, thus allowing for some slipping. This makes for an unstable joint and the body’s attempts to stabilize the joint only end up yielding arthritis.

If this Disease Starts in Puppyhood why are most Affected Dogs Elderly?

As they age, they develop bony spurs along the margin of the socket, mineralization of the joint capsule, cartilage wear, and inflammatory change in the joint (i.e. degenerative arthritis) and become painful and now these dogs come to the veterinarian for an evaluation. 

Why Are There Differences in Age and Size for Patients with Hip Dysplasia?

Obviously, different individuals may have different degrees of dysplasia. A dog’s weight makes a difference (a lighter dog can more easily tolerate a more abnormal hip joint). The muscle mass supporting the joint is greater in a younger dog and helps reduce the stress directly on the bones. Still, some dogs have truly shocking radiographs and virtually no symptoms while others show relatively subtle changes and are very uncomfortable. It is not known why there is not a better correlation between radiographs and actual pain.

How Can Owners Tell if Their Dog is Having Discomfort?

Do not expect a dog with dysplasia (or any other chronically painful condition for that matter) to cry or whine in pain. Instead, discomfort is shown with reduced activity, and difficulty rising or lying down, or going upstairs. A characteristic swivel of the hips is seen from behind and classically stairs are taken in a bunny hop fashion.

What Causes Hip Dysplasia?

The primary cause of hip dysplasia is genetic but inheritance of this trait is not as simple as a dominance/recessive relationship like we study in high school biology. Normal dogs can breed and yield dysplastic offspring as the condition may skip generations. Furthermore, dogs with a genetic picture conducive to hip dysplasia still must contend with other factors such as level of exercise at an early age, nutritional factors, hormonal/neutering factors, and other environmental situations.

Preventing hip dysplasia primarily focuses on breeding dogs with normal hips. The problem with this approach is that dogs often do not develop signs of hip dysplasia until well after they have been bred. A genetic test would be of great value in dog breeding, but currently, there is only such a test available for Labrador retrievers; identifying dogs with less than stellar hip quality so as to exclude them from breeding is done via OFA and PennHip certification (see sections on registration below).

It is important to consider the breed of dog when choosing a puppy for many reasons, including potential genetic orthopedic problems. Hip dysplasia is typically a problem for large, stocky dog breeds. Small dogs and lean, slender breeds such as sighthounds rarely develop hip dysplasia. If you have settled on a breed that has an issue with hip dysplasia, be aware of the certification process of the parents. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals publishes statistics on affected breeds. 

Other than selective breeding, it is possible to manage other factors in hip dysplasia development when raising a predisposed puppy that may help make the genetic issues less severe.

Nutrition

Nutritional factors are important in developing hip dysplasia. For example, it has been popular to try to nutritionally push a large breed puppy to grow faster or larger by providing extra protein, more calcium, or even just extra food. Practices such as these have been disastrous, leading to bones and muscles growing at different rates and creating assorted joint diseases of which hip dysplasia is one. One study showed that when puppies of hip dysplasia-prone breeds were allowed to free feed, two-thirds went on to develop hip dysplasia while only one-third developed it when the same diet was fed in meals. Another study showed German Shepherds were nearly twice as likely to develop hip dysplasia if their adult weights were above average. Studies such as these have led to puppy foods designed for large-breed puppies, where the optimal nutritional plane is lower than for small-breed puppies. After puppyhood, maintaining a lean body condition seems to be helpful in lessening arthritis signs.

Exercise

Exactly what the proper preventive exercise regimen might be is yet undefined. One study showed that puppies had an increased risk for hip dysplasia if they were allowed to freely run up and down stairs before age three months. The decreased risk was found in puppies allowed off-leash exercise, such as in the backyard, before age three months.

Neutering Age

There is some controversy about the effect of spaying/neutering before puberty. Male dogs rely on testosterone to stop bone growth and early neutered males will grow taller as their bones grow for a longer period if testosterone is removed early. This may lead to a predisposing disparity in the growth of bone and muscle. There appear to be predisposing factors for early spay as well, assuming the dog has the genetic predisposition.  How much added predisposition comes with early spay/neuter and for which breeds remains controversial. In one study, it was found that neutering before age 5.5 months was associated with a 6.7% incidence of hip dysplasia while neutering after age 5.5 months was associated with a 4.7% incidence of hip dysplasia.

How Can I Find Out if My Dog Has Hip Dysplasia?

The first step in diagnosis is an examination. Your veterinarian will likely extend the dog’s hind leg backward to check for pain as hip dysplasia causes pain on hip extension. The dog may be asked to walk around to demonstrate the possible hip swivel.

Another test involves having the dog lie on its back with a hind leg perpendicular to the body. As the leg is moved away from perpendicular to the body, a dysplastic hip will generate a pop as the femoral head slips to the center of the acetabulum. This pop, which can be felt if your hand is resting on the hip during the exercise, is called an Ortolani sign. You may hear this term used as hip dysplasia is discussed. 

The true confirmation of hip dysplasia comes with radiography. The dog must be radiographed on their back with both legs positioned straight down. This posture is painful to a dog with dysplasia so to get maximum cooperation from and comfort for the patient, sedation is needed. The seating of the femoral heads in the acetabular sockets is examined and assessed for arthritis.

Above are two radiographs: normal hips in Image 1 and dysplastic hips in Image 2 (and severely dysplastic hips in Image 3). It is easy to see how the femoral heads are not well seated in their sockets in the dysplastic hips. This puppy in the above left has a subluxation, which means the hips are nearly out of the socket completely. Over time, the femoral heads will flatten and the sockets will become even more shallow. Bone spurs will develop around the joint capsule as the body attempts to stabilize the abnormal joint.

What is OFA Registration?

When purchasing a puppy, particularly one of a larger breed, often the parents will be listed as “OFA Good” or “OFA Excellent.” What this means is that the breeder has had the hips of the parent dogs certified by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. The OFA is an organization with the goal of reducing the incidence of hip dysplasia (though now it is also possible to obtain certification for elbows, thyroid function, and other issues). The idea here is that a dog for breeding can have radiographs taken at the age of 24 months. The radiographs are sent to the OFA for review by several independent radiologists where they are graded. Hips that are rated as “good” or “excellent” receive a registration number. Offspring of OFA-certified parents would be less likely to develop dysplasia themselves, however, it is important to realize that a dog with excellent hips at age 2 may not have such excellent hips at age 5, 7, or 10. OFA certification is no guarantee that a dog will not develop hip dysplasia symptoms in the future and does not guarantee that the offspring will not develop hip dysplasia but, as mentioned, until a DNA test for hip dysplasia is developed parental certification is the best we can do.

What is PennHip Registration?

Many people with potential breeding dogs do not want to have to wait two years for OFA registration. The University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Plan, developed by Dr. Gail Smith, allows for another way to predict if a dog will develop hip dysplasia. For PennHip certification, the veterinarian taking the radiographs must receive specific training and special equipment is necessary. The pet is anesthetized and two radiographs are taken: one with the femoral heads compressed (pushed into the acetabula as far as they will go) and one with the femoral heads distracted (pulled out of the acetabula as far as they will go). A measurement called a distraction index is calculated from these radiographs,  the idea being that a tighter-fitting hip – one allowing less distraction – is less likely to develop dysplasia. Each dog breed has a different range of distraction that is considered acceptable. Puppies can be certified as young as 16 weeks of age with this system.

Is Surgery the Best Treatment for Hip Dysplasia?

There are many surgical options for hip dysplasia and it is important to understand which patients benefit from which surgery. Some surgical procedures are controversial and some are not. All will entail a recovery period as well as expenses. Both hips need not necessarily be treated surgically; treating one hip is often enough to yield good results. Hip surgery is relatively expensive and a surgery specialist may be required, depending on the procedure. If you are considering surgery for your dog, these are the procedures to know about.

Femoral Head/Neck Ostectomy

This surgery is commonly referred to as the Femoral Head/Neck Ostectomy(FHO) and is best used for smaller dogs (50 lbs/22.7kg or less) or very active dogs. Here, the femoral head is cut off and removed, allowing the joint to heal as a false joint (just a capsule connecting the two bones but no actual bone-to-bone contact). If the dog is not carrying too much weight, a false joint is strong enough. If the dog is very active, a false joint will form quickly. The pet typically does not want to use the leg for the first two weeks but should at least be partially using the leg after four to six weeks. The leg should be used nearly normally after a couple of months. Many veterinarians are well experienced with this surgery and often a specialist is not needed. This surgery is typically substantially less expensive than the other procedures.

Triple Pelvic Osteotomy

This surgery is appropriate for young (8-18 months) dogs with dysplasia but without degenerative arthritis changes. This means that there is a window of opportunity for this surgery and if the dog develops arthritis or becomes too old, it will be too late to do this surgery. Here, the ill-fitting acetabulum is essentially sawed free of the rest of the pelvis, re-positioned for a tighter fit on the femoral head, and then plated back into place.

Many times surgery on one hip leads to positive changes in the other hip so surgery on the second hip is not necessary. Alternatively, it is possible to do the TPO on both hips if it seems clear that ultimately both will need surgical correction. Many general practitioners will not feel comfortable doing this procedure, so discuss with your veterinarian whether a referral to a board-certified surgeon or a surgeon with extensive orthopedic experience is in your pet’s best interest. Aftercare involves a good three to four months of exercise restriction. No leashed walks, except to go outside for elimination, for two months.

The biggest problem with the TPO is determining whether the patient really needs it. If the dog is not experiencing hip discomfort at the time of diagnosis, he may not experience hip discomfort until he is elderly, and should he really have an invasive procedure early as a preventive? On the other hand, if he is having discomfort at a young age, the arthritis is likely to only get worse and early surgery could help this tremendously. These are matters to discuss with the surgeon.

Total Hip Replacement

This procedure is for dogs with established degenerative hip changes. For these dogs, the best choice may be to simply replace the hip or hips with a prosthetic hip. This procedure may sound radical but it has been commonly performed for over 30 years in dogs with great success.  It is a highly invasive procedure, obviously, and infection must be avoided at all costs (no skin disease can be in the skin over the hips, extra precautions for sterility are used). In other words, when complications occur they have the potential to be severe. Complications have about a 10 percent incidence. Expect about three months of exercise restriction after this procedure. Usually, only one hip receives surgery at a time. Often only one replacement is needed and the pet does well enough not to need surgery on the other side.

Juvenile Pubic Symphysiodesis

This surgery is performed on young puppies before age five months, so it is generally done as a preventive procedure before it is known if the puppy will indeed have dysplastic hips but after hip laxity has been detected. The pubic symphysis is the cartilage seam connecting the right side of the pelvis to the left side. As an individual matures, this cartilage converts to bone and the two halves of the pelvis fuse permanently. This surgery prematurely seals the symphysis, which in turn results in rotating the developing hip sockets into a more normal alignment. This is the same re-configuring as the TPO above but instead of doing the reconfiguring with surgery, it is done by directing the puppy’s own bone growth. The window is very narrow for this procedure so if a puppy is a predisposed breed it may be worth getting screening radiographs around age 4 months even though no physical discomfort has developed. It may be worth having this preventive procedure while the puppy is still at an age to benefit from it.

No matter which, if any, procedure is selected, it is important to get an idea of expenses, recovery procedure, and what is entailed from your veterinarian and the surgeon before making a decision.

What Non-Surgical Treatment is Available?

Non-surgical treatment of hip dysplasia is essentially the same as a non-surgical treatment for any other type of arthritis. There are nutritional supplements to help repair cartilage, pain medications, and anti-inflammatory medications. Physical therapy and massage are also important and helpful in non-surgical joint therapy. 

Water

Clean water must be accessible to any animal at all times. Some species, such as chinchillas and gerbils, require less water due to physiological adaptations to living in a dry environment, but they still need a water source always available. A sipper water bottle is the best choice because it cannot be contaminated with bedding, food, feces and urine. The sipper part of the bottle should be metal and not plastic, which can easily be damaged by inquisitive teeth.  Animals unfamiliar with a sipper bottle may have to be trained to use it. It is not necessary to add vitamins to the water for any of these species if the recommended diets are followed. The disadvantages of adding vitamins include making the water taste disagreeable and promoting bacterial growth. In addition, many vitamins are inactivated shortly after they are exposed to air, water and light, which reduces their effectiveness. Although it is a rare problem, it is possible to overdose a pet on vitamins, which can result in disease. Medications should be added to the water only under the advice of your veterinarian.

Water bottles or bowls should be emptied and filled with fresh water daily to encourage drinking (some animals don’t like stale water) and to prevent overgrowth of bacteria.

Remember that giving food to your pet is not just a matter of making sure it gets its nutrients.  Food is also something that is mentally stimulating and interesting for your pet.  Most animals in the wild spend a good portion of their day looking for food.  When we give them all the food they want all the time in one place in their cage it can be pretty boring!  We are essentially taking away the “work” they do and it is no wonder animals can become lethargic and overweight.  Once your pet is comfortable in your home and is eating well, try making some changes in how and where you feed.  Try stuffing pellets or healthy treat foods in toys like small boxes or toilet paper rolls or plain white paper twisted closed at each end.  Try hiding the food around the cage or exercise area so they have to forage for it.  Be inventive and have some fun.  Treat foods, as listed for each species, are great to use for training your pet for a variety of simple behaviors that make life interesting for both of you!

Food As An Environmental Enrichment

As a general rule, any changes in your pet’s diet should be made slowly over a period of time to avoid intestinal upsets. If your pet is not in the best of health, or if you are in doubt about changes that should or should not be made as suggested by this article, please consult your veterinarian before proceeding. The dietary recommendations in this article are for NON-BREEDING, NON-PRODUCTION PETS. If you are involved in a breeding or a production program, you may need to make adjustments in the amount and types of foods fed.

Rabbits

The biggest mistake people make when feeding rabbits is overfeeding high calorie and high starch foods such as commercial pellets and grains and underfeeding high fiber foods such as hay and greens. This pattern of feeding can lead to obesity and gastrointestinal disease. The most important part of the house rabbit diet is an unlimited supply of grass hay, which provides essential fiber as well as proteins, vitamins, minerals and carbohydrates. Because of the high fiber content of the hay, it is the best preventative for stomach and intestinal problems such as chronic soft stools. Hay (and greens) also provide some of the essential work needed to keep the teeth worn down due to all the chewing the rabbit needs to do to break it down.  Hay should be provided for your pet in a box or hay rack and should always be available. Hay can also be stuffed in empty paper towel or toilet paper rolls, unpainted, unvarnished baskets, empty boxes and so on to provide a sense of foraging for food, which is a mental enrichment.  Grass hay is preferred over alfalfa hay because grass hay is lower in calories and calcium. There are several types of grass hays available such as mixed orchard grass, timothy, Bermuda or oat. Hays vary depending on the area of the country and the time of the year. Sources of hay include pet stores, feed stores and online companies. Hay should be stored in a cool, dry area in an open bag to allow for good air circulation. Hay should have a fresh smell. Damp hay can become moldy and should be discarded. Rabbits of any age can be introduced to hay without any special preparation. Rabbits are perhaps the third most commonly kept mammal after dogs and cats in the United States. They are not rodents, but are included in a family called Lagomorpha. They are strict herbivores and have continually growing incisors and molars that are designed to tear and macerate tough leafy foods. The jaw moves from side to side when the rabbit is eating and the teeth are worn down by this action. Rabbits require a large percentage of fiber in their diet to maintain normal gastrointestinal motility. Rabbits have a large cecum, which is a blind pouch located at the junction of the small intestine and the large intestine, where the digestible portions of the intestinal contents enter and are broken down by bacteria. Some nutrients are absorbed through the wall of the cecum, but most nutrients are locked up in the bacteria. The rabbit then produces bacteria-rich droppings called cecotropes, which are softer, stickier, greener and have a stronger odor than the regular waste droppings. These cecotropes are eaten directly from the anus as soon as they are produced. The cecotropes are then passed through the digestive tract of the rabbit and nutrients such as vitamins, amino acids and fatty acids are released from the bacteria and absorbed into the rabbit’s body. In this way, rabbits are efficient at producing their own vitamin, protein and fat supply from food that for some animals, such as ourselves, would be totally useless.

Another important part of the house rabbit diet is fresh, leafy greens. These foods provide not only fiber, but a variety of vitamins, such as A and C, minerals, proteins, and carbohydrates. Most rabbits really enjoy their greens. The old stories about greens causing ‘diarrhea’ are usually referring to rabbits that have been on a low-fiber or high-calorie diet, such as a commercial pellet or a high-grain diet, that are suddenly introduced to greens. On commercial pellets or grains, the flora in the gastrointestinal (GI) tract may not be as varied as in a hay and greens based diet.  Additionally, the GI tract may become a bit sluggish due to the high calorie content and lower fiber content. When greens are introduced to these rabbits, more water is introduced into the GI tract than the rabbit got on the dry commercial diet.  In addition, the GI flora has to shift to accommodate the new food and the GI tract ‘speeds up’ to a more normal rate. All this can result in temporary soft stools, which usually stabilizes within a week. However there is no reason for your rabbit to have to experience this if you follow this rule.  For rabbits that have never been on anything but pellets, first introduce hay and once your rabbit is eating hay well for at least four weeks, then introduce greens.  

When first introducing greens for any rabbit, do so one type at a time every three days to make sure your rabbit is handling things well.  Keep track of the foods you have fed and once they have been successfully introduced you can feed any selection you like each day.  Once your rabbit has been introduced to greens, feed at least three different types of greens daily so that you provide a variety of nutrients. Greens should be washed thoroughly, to remove dangerous pesticides. Uneaten fresh foods should be removed from the cage after 3 to 4 hours to prevent spoilage. The amount to feed is a maximum of 1 packed cup of greens for each 2 lbs of body weight daily   You can feed this all at once or divide it between two or more feedings a day.  Some examples of nutritious greens are: dandelion greens (and flowers), raspberry leaves, kale, mustard greens, escarole, endive, radicchio, collard greens, beet greens, carrot tops, parsley, turnip tops, romaine, Swiss chard, bok choy, mint leaves, cabbage (red and green), etc. Use dark, tough, leafy greens as opposed to light colored thin-leafed greens such as bibb lettuce and iceberg lettuce.

Commercial rabbit pellets were originally designed to promote rapid growth, weight gain, and ease of feeding for production rabbits (meat and fur) and laboratory rabbits. They are efficient at what they are designed to do, but for the house rabbit that is to live out a full life, the unlimited feeding of a commercial pellet may be a problem. Once rabbits are full grown, they don’t need to put on more weight. Feed your juvenile pet a commercial pellet that is designed for the maintenance of the adult rabbit, with a fiber content of 18% or higher, a protein content at around 13-14% and fat content at no more than 3%. Once a young bunny has reached its adult size (4-8 months depending on the breed) we recommend cutting back the pellets to 1/4 cup per day as a MAXIMUM. Remember, there is always hay available so your pet will never go hungry. Pellets should be bought in amounts that will be used within 3 months and kept in a closed container in a cool dry place to prevent spoilage. Do not use pellet mixes that contain grains and seeds along with the pellets. The addition of the grains and seeds only add to the calorie and fat content, which can result in obesity, liver and intestinal disease. Some obese rabbits that have difficulty losing weight on pellets may have to have them removed from the diet altogether, but this should be done only under your veterinarian’s supervision. 

Additional supplements are not needed for rabbits on a diet that is rich in hay, greens and limited pellets.

Guinea Pigs

Guinea pigs have a special requirement that rabbits and other rodents do not. Guinea pigs, along with humans and primates, require an outside source of vitamin C.  Other animals produce their own vitamin C within their bodies. Commercial foods made specifically for guinea pigs should have vitamin C already added.  The problem is that vitamin C is water soluble and not stable when exposed to sunlight or high temperatures or when stored for a long time.  Sometimes the pellets you buy may not have been stored properly or are too old and you may think your pet is getting enough C when that’s not the case!  The good news is that there are other ways to give vitamin C.  One is through good quality grass hay, as mentioned.  The other is by feeding dark, leafy greens that are richer in vitamin C then an orange! For instance a cup of fresh kale contains approximately 250 mg of vitamin C compared to a cup of oranges (without the peel), which contains only 50 mg of C. The minimum daily vitamin C requirement in the guinea pig is around 25 mg per day. Guinea pigs can easily get this amount and more with the feeding of 1/2 to 1 cup of fresh leafy greens daily. (Use the same greens as listed for rabbits above.) Some particularly high vitamin C foods are kale, dandelion greens, parsley, collard greens, green peppers and mustard greens. Supplementing vitamin C in the water is not effective due the rapid breakdown of the vitamin when it is exposed to light and heat; also, some vitamin C products have a bitter taste and this is not recommended.  There are also vitamin C chewable tablets that can be given if your pet will not eat any of the green foods mentioned.  Please consult your veterinarian if you choose to give vitamin C in a tablet or liquid form to make sure that you are not overdosing your pet. Guinea pigs, rats, mice, hamsters, gerbils, and chinchillas are all rodents, but they have some distinct differences in their dietary requirements due to the diverse habitats where they originate. Guinea pigs are herbivores and require a similar diet as rabbits with plenty of grass hay and greens and limited commercial pellets. They have continuously growing incisors and molars, which like the rabbit wear down with the normal action of eating. Guinea pigs also produce nutrient-rich cecotropes in a similar manner as rabbits, which they eat directly from the anal area. Guinea pigs should have unlimited grass hay, which is rich in nutrients, not too high in calories, promotes healthy intestinal tract movement and flora and is helpful for proper tooth wear.

Healthy treat foods for guinea pigs are the same as listed for rabbits above.  Feed a maximum of 1 level tablespoon of combined treats per day.  These can be great to use for training as well.

As with rabbits, commercial pellets were designed for rapid growth and ease of feeding, however unlimited feeding of commercial pellets can lead to obesity.  Therefore, limit pellets to 1/8 cup pellets per 2 lb guinea pig daily. As mentioned above, even though guinea pig pellets have vitamin C added, you should not depend on them to provide the full daily amount. Guinea pig pellets must be used within 90 days of the day they were produced to guarantee sufficient amounts of vitamin C. In many situations, bags of pellets have been sitting on the shelf for longer than 3 months and the vitamin C content is drastically reduced due to breakdown by contact with air, moisture and high environmental temperatures. Scurvy, a disease caused by vitamin C deficiency, is still one of the most common diseases seen in the pet guinea pig who is fed a strictly commercial pelleted diet. Rabbit pellets should not be substituted for guinea pig pellets because they may contain excessive levels of vitamin D, which can be toxic to guinea pigs. Do not feed cereal grains or sugary foods to guinea pigs for the same reasons as in the rabbit.

Guinea pigs are notorious for playing with their water bottles and spilling a great deal of water into the cage. The bottle may have to be refilled frequently and the bedding underneath it changed daily to prevent mold from growing.

Chinchillas

Chinchillas also can get the same treat foods as rabbits at a maximum of 1 tablespoon a day.  Unlike rabbits, however, you can give your chinchilla a small amount of raw or roasted UNSALTED nuts daily such as pumpkin seeds, sunflower or safflower seeds, flax seeds, millet, almonds, pecans and walnuts. Chinchillas rarely have a problem with obesity and these ‘treat’ foods appear to be greatly relished. Commercial chinchilla pellets can be fed in the amount of 1/8 cup daily for an adult chinchilla. The pellets should contain approximately 16 to 20% protein, 18% fiber, and about 2 to 5% fat.  Because chinchillas come from a dry environment they do not drink much water but it should still always be provided.  A sipper bottle is preferred. Chinchillas have a diet similar to rabbits. They are herbivores with continually growing teeth as in the rabbit and guinea pig. They originally came from a dry, cold mountainous area where their diet consisted primarily of tough dry grasses. Chinchillas should be provided with unlimited grass hay as described for the rabbit because the fiber is critically important to proper digestion and the tough hay strands may be helpful in keeping the teeth worn properly. They can also be offered greens as described for the rabbit, but they don’t need as much since their natural diet is much more dry then a rabbit’s diet.  Feeding about ¼ cup per day of any of the greens listed for rabbits is usually sufficient. 

Rats, Mice, Hamsters, And Gerbils

Rats, mice, hamsters and gerbils have similar dietary requirements. They are all primarily seed eaters but rats, mice and particularly hamsters are also known to eat some insects and other small animals either fresh or as carrion. All of these species have long, continually growing incisors, which are worn down by the action of eating and by chewing on hard surfaces such as wood in the process of creating nests and burrows. The basic diet for this group should consist of a good quality rodent chow or lab block. Rodent chows should have a minimum of 16% protein and 4 to 5% fat content. These dry foods can be left in the cage at all times in a bowl or hanging feeder to be consumed as needed. However as mentioned at the beginning of this article it may be more interesting for your pet to have the food put in the environment a couple of times a day; try putting it in different areas, or hiding it as described. Very young, recently weaned animals may have a problem gnawing on the hard pellets and it will be necessary to break them into smaller pieces or soften them for a few weeks until the pet is more mature. Pelleted food should be purchased in amounts that will be used within three months to prevent spoilage. Good quality rodent chows are considered to be fairly complete diets for this group.

 Other foods can be fed in addition to the commercial pellets but should not constitute more than 20% of the total diet. Fruit and vegetables as described for the rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas can be offered at a rate of about 1 teaspoon/day. Remove any uneaten fresh foods within 3 to 4 hours to prevent spoilage. All of these species love grains, nuts and seeds, but these foods should be offered in small quantities because of their high fat content. A reasonable amount of nuts and or seeds would be a total of 1 teaspoon/day for rats and about ½ teaspoon for the other species.  If these ‘treat’ foods are given free choice, the pet will eat them exclusively, not eat the balanced pellets and develop nutritional disease such as obesity.

Ferrets

Ferrets in recent years have been traditionally fed a dry commercial diet.  There are now many diets on the market that state they are designed specifically for ferrets.  The problem with all of these diets is that in order to make the dry shape of the food, it is necessary to use grains such as corn, rice, wheat or potato.  Being strict carnivores, ferrets do not digest nor need these plant products in their diet.  Grain-based diets may also predispose ferrets to urolithiasis. In addition, some researchers have discovered that feeding an all-dry diet is too hard for a ferret’s small teeth and it may cause excessive wear to the teeth over time, leading to dental disease as the ferret ages.  The most natural diet for a ferret would be one that is comprised of whole prey, such as humanely killed whole mice, small rats, chicks and so on.  While whole-prey diet is somewhat popular in Europe, its use has never really caught on in North America. Therefore, if one is to depend primarily on commercial foods, then a variety of foods would be the best choice. Ferrets are strict carnivores and belong to the family Mustelidae. They have a short digestive tract and food passes from one end to the other in about three to four hours. Ferrets have a minimum protein requirement of 32%, which, when combined with the short amount of time that the food is in the intestinal tract, necessitates a high quality dietary meat protein. Plant proteins are not digested and used by ferrets. In addition, they have a high fat requirement, around 20 to 30%. Ferrets use fat as their main energy source. They are poor digesters of fiber and they cannot utilize carbohydrates effectively for energy.  It is also important to note that ferrets, like cats, will develop strong taste preferences by the time they are 4 months of age.  This gives these animals the reputation for being “finicky” later in life, but it is really based on their natural biology.  Therefore it is a good idea to expose young ferrets to a variety of tastes and textures that will expand the foods they will eat later as an adult.

Ferrets can be fed a either a high quality cat or ferret commercial diet that has a minimum of grain in it.  There are several diets available for either ferrets or cats (also strict carnivores) that fit the bill.  Look for a food that has at a minimum 32% and a maximum of 40% protein and at least 20% fat.  Because these diets may be hard on the teeth over time, it may be preferable to sprinkle some water or chicken broth over the food to slightly soften it.  It is not necessary to blenderize it or make it into a soup. Contrary to prior recommendations for feeding dry food to ferrets, it is not necessary to have food in the cage constantly.  Ferrets are highly intelligent hunters and would have only eaten once or twice a day.  Therefore, it is only necessary to put the food in twice a day for 30 to 60 minutes and then remove it.  In this way they will gain some mental stimulation looking forward to mealtime.  Try putting the food in different places and hiding it in their play area to give them a chance to “hunt” for it.

In addition to the commercial diet, you can feed about a tablespoon of a good quality all-meat canned cat food.  Avoid foods that have vegetables or grains in them.  This addition will be both mentally stimulating and will expand the variety of meat sources your pet will get.  Many of the commercial diets are based on chicken, so try canned beef, venison, duck, turkey and other meats if possible.

Some ferrets enjoy bits of fruit and vegetables such as green peppers, bananas, cucumbers and melons. These are not foods a ferret would normally encounter in the wild but in small amounts they are not harmful. Feed no more than 1 level teaspoon per ferret per day of a fruit or vegetable. They cannot digest fiber well, and if these items are fed in excess, your pet may develop diarrhea. Foods to completely avoid include breads, breakfast cereals, cakes, cookies and dried fruits such as raisins. These foods contain too many sugars, which can be damaging to the ferret’s pancreas.

Unfortunately, ferrets love sweet foods and may beg for these treats, but you take a serious risk with your pet’s health in offering them.  Many of the commercial treats sold for ferrets have sugar in them, so it is best to avoid them.  Remember ferrets are carnivores so select their treats appropriately.

Fatty acid supplements may be beneficial to your ferret, particularly if the fat content of the food you are giving is under 20%.  If the fat content is too low you may see the hair coat become dry and the skin flakey.  Your ferret may be itchier as well.  If needed, use a good quality supplement that includes Omega 3 and Omega 6 oils.  Check with your veterinarian for a source.  Use about ¼ teaspoon per ferret per day.   Please note that if your ferret’s coat does not respond to the addition of the supplement within a couple of weeks or if there is hair loss or skin disease, please have your pet examined by a veterinarian.  These signs are indications of disease that is not related to diet.

Conclusion

Feeding your pet will take some thought and preparation, but once a routine is established it should be easy to accomplish. Good nutrition is the basis for a strong body. Feeding your pet in a healthy manner will help to prevent many potential disease problems down the road.

Visit your veterinarian with your pet regularly not only for health checkups but to stay informed of current information in the ever-evolving field of small mammal husbandry and care.